There are places that seem designed by the hand of an artist. The cliffs of Étretat, in Normandy, are one of these: a landscape carved by the wind and the sea, which inspired painters such as Monet and continues to enchant millions of tourists every year. But as often happens, beauty, if not protected, can become the victim of its success.
Étretat today is faced with a crossroads: continue to let yourself be consumed by mass tourism, or stop before it’s too late. Local authorities have chosen the second road.
Not just postcards: étretat and the harsh reality of the loveourism
Every year, more than 1.5 million visitors crowd this tiny village overlooking the Atlantic. Many come to admire the natural arch that throws itself into the sea or to take a photo from the most famous panoramic points. Still others are looking for the places made famous by the “Lupine” series on Netflix.
But behind selfies and stories on Instagram, there is an increasingly exasperated local population. Clogged streets, pebbles stolen from the beach, landslides caused by the excessive pedestrian passage, eroded paths, fatal accidents. It is not just a landscape question: étretat is becoming an emblematic case of European Overurism.
From 28 April the rules have changed: goodbye to iconic paths
The authorities decided to intervene with a narrow on access: some areas – such as the famous tunnel “Trou à l’homme” – have been closed. It is not just about protecting rocks, but also of safeguarding human lives. Too many tourists were blocked by the tides or ventured into dangerous points, unaware of the risk.
Those who ignore the prohibitions will be able to receive a fine of 135 euros, but above all they will risk having to take on the costs – highly salty – of a possible rescue: up to 3,000 euros per hour if a helicopter is needed.
And if you think it is an exaggeration, know that many apparently stable traits have actually already collapsed under the vegetation. You walk above without knowing that there is nothing more below.
What if it were the opportunity to change the way of traveling?
This story concerns us all. Because it reminds us that there is no beauty that can survive without respect. Étretat is not a playground, nor a film set: it is a fragile ecosystem, a real community, a heritage that cannot be taken for granted.
It is time to ask us if a tourism that consumes, invades, demands is still sustainable. Maybe it’s time to slow down, choose less beaten destinations, live the places with attention and presence. Walking, listening, observing, without demanding everything – immediately and free.
Also because the real postcard photo is not only found in front of a Faraglione, but in the respectful silence with which we know how to cross the world.
