If we had to imagine the Genoese pesto We would immediately think of a green and brilliant, fresh sauce, which releases basil perfume, enriched with extra virgin olive oil, pine nuts, garlic, salt and seasoned cheeses, in a recipe carved in the Ligurian tradition.
However, when the pesto ends up on the shelves of supermarkets, packaged within jars and containers who boast long months of conservation, reality differs from that image. The Life jacketin the investigation published in the June issue, shows the least romantic face of one of the most loved condiments of Italian cuisine, through a test performed on 14 References.
Here are the 14 brands analyzed
The test put 14 Genoese plagues under the lens:
Long conservation pesto changes face
In order for the pesto to remain on the shelves for a long time, the companies resort to pasteurization, a process that reduces the bacterial load, and which at the same time, by cooking the sauce, reduces fragrance, color and flavor. At this point, the “touch -ups” come into play: use of cheaper oils, such as sunflower, which take the place of extra virgin olive oil, while thickeners, artificial aromas and vegetable fibers try to return creaminess and taste.
So the original recipe loses pieces. Some brands choose the anacardi, less expensive than the pine nuts, others add yogurt, almonds, sugars and even syrups. According to the lifeguard, Todis and Eurospin guide the ranking of the most “creative” recipes, far from tradition. Naturasì, however, defends, despite some concession, the identity of the Genoese pesto.
Pesticides: up to ten in a jar
The test went beyond the label, given the analysis on pesticide residues. The results push to reflect: Out of 14 champions, traces of multiple substances emerge in 12in some cases reaching ten principles active in one jar. Only Naturasì and Alberti, the two organic champions, remain almost without residues.
The workshops have identified mainly Authorized fungicides for basileven if the presence of potentially toxic molecules such as Boscalid and Metalaxyl arouses some concern. Currently in Europe there is no maximum residual limit for a mixed product such as pesto. The lifeguard then applied the limits provided for fresh basil, penalizing the jars that have numerous or close residues to the threshold values.
All samples respect the legislationbut the theme of the exposure combined with multiple substances opens, the so -called “Cocktail of pesticides“. A little known risk that could affect health, in particular of children. On this issue, we remember a study we had already spoken of: the dark side of agriculture: pesticide cocktail connected to the increase in cancers in children.
Mycotoxins: below threshold, but be careful
The test also examined the mycotoxinssubstances generated by molds that can contaminate pine nuts and anacardi. The good news is that no sample exceeds the most stringent limits established for foods intended for the little ones. However, numbers that invite caution remain: in some jars the levels of ococratossin a epicbar They remain only ten times below the limits set for the baby food.
These values respect the lawbut ask some questions for those who consume pesto regularly.
The test votes: what emerges
How is all this reflect on the final evaluation? The life jacket attributed a weight of the 40% in the presence of pesticidesof 30% to mycotoxins and of the 30% to loyalty to traditional recipe. The resulting picture appears not very reassuring: food safety is not compromised, but the consumer often finds himself in front of a pesto that of “Genoese” retains only the writing on the label.
All products analyzed obtain at least enough. Those who want to discover the best brands can find the complete ranking on the latest number of the life jacket.
