They violated labor regulations and exploited workers, who were also in non-existent safety conditions: 13 new brands, all high fashion, ended up in the sights of the Milan Prosecutor’s Office in the maxi investigation that follows the Tod’s case and which turns the spotlight on the conditions of workers in the luxury supply chain.
The prosecutor, with the Carabinieri of the Labor Inspectorate Unit, sent as many documentary delivery orders to the brands involved after checks in the Chinese factories to which the production had been subcontracted. And the situation is dramatic.
Among the best-known brands are Versace, Gucci, Prada and Dolce&Gabbana.
What happened
The request for documentation comes after, in recent months, investigations have highlighted the use of Chinese workers, exploited in conditions of serious precariousness, within laboratories and “dormitory factories”, where products belonging to these brands have also been found. The authorities are trying to reconstruct the production chain, highlighting potential cases of gangmastering which, if confirmed, could affect the entire supply chain of some of the most influential global brands.
In addition to the brands already involved, such as Tod’s, the Milan prosecutor’s office has therefore extended the investigation to other companies in the fashion and luxury sector, including Missoni, Ferragamo, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Pinko, Coccinelle, Adidas, Alexander McQueen Italia and Off-White. According to the documents, the investigations into the fashion giants revealed serious anomalies in the checks on employment contracts and the conditions of workers, in particular in the clothing workshops, where workers’ rights are often neglected.
The investigation is a strong signal against a phenomenon that continues to be rooted in some sectors, despite efforts to combat it. The Milanese Prosecutor’s Office intends to clarify whether these exploitative practices were possible due to a non-transparent management of the subcontracting chains. The request for documentation concerns not only employment contracts, but also the ways in which brands monitor their production chain and the selection of suppliers, with the aim of identifying possible connivance or negligence.
Gangmastering in the world of fashion is nothing new and, indeed, this news suggests how widespread the problem is still. So what is the true cost of fashion? Every piece we wear has a story that deserves to be told, too often made up of hands that work under exploitation. The ongoing investigations are a reminder to all of us: we can no longer allow the price of beauty to be paid by those who have no voice.
Isn’t it time for a radical change, which puts respect for workers, for the environment and for truly sustainable fashion at the centre?
