With Christmas just around the corner, pandoro confirms itself as one of the undisputed protagonists of the Italian holidays. To help consumers in their choice, Gambero Rosso evaluated the most common pandoros from large-scale retail trade through a blind sensorial analysis. The tasting involved industry experts including Arcangelo Patrizi of the Patrizi pastry shop in Fiumicino, Manuel Conti of Le Levain in Rome and Gianluca Forino, former world pastry champion.
The evaluation parameters of a quality pandoro
Identifying a quality pandoro among the numerous offerings on the shelves requires attention to specific parameters. Connoisseurs and professionals in the sector apply well-defined tasting criteria, from the selection of raw materials to the aromatic profile, from the structure of the pasta to the taste balance.
Visual analysis is the first approach: an excellent pandoro has the iconic eight-pointed star shape, with well-marked and symmetrical apexes. The crust must show a homogeneous browning, without irregularities or areas of uneven cooking.
When cutting the cake, the ideal crumb appears soft but not moist, with tiny, evenly distributed honeycombing, excluding large cavities that would signal suboptimal fermentation. The olfactory examination is of great importance: the aromatic profile should express delicate notes of butter and vanilla. Excessively strong or artificial scents could indicate the use of synthetic flavorings or additives that penalize quality.
Consistency is fundamental: the pandoro must be dry and soft to the touch, never greasy or sticky. If stressed, the dough must maintain cohesion. A quality product supports the cut well, without crumbling or losing structure.
In the mouth, the pandoro must melt delicately, with a sensation of lightness that excludes impressions of heaviness. The flavor must be harmonious, sweet in the right amount without being excessive, with clear references to butter and vanilla, without unpleasant residues of raw flour or too intense yeast.
The complete ranking of the best supermarket pandoros
1. Galup
In first place is the Pandoro Galup at 15.50 euros. Although it is indicated on the packaging as a “lactose-free” product, the pandoro from the historic Pinerolo company contains 17% butter which, as specified on the label, represents a quantity that guarantees a lactose content of less than 0.01% in the finished product.
A product that is visually appreciated for its slightly elongated honeycomb and which on the nose offers nuances of fresh cream and bread, leaving a very delicate note of vanilla on the finish. It is elegant on the palate and boasts excellent structure, softness and meltability.
2. Three Marys
A very elegant mold with a strong shape introduces the tasting of the Tre Marie pandoro, recognizable by its intense yellow color and by an irregular and well-distributed honeycomb which gives it an almost artisanal character. The aromatic profile is characterized by fresh lactic notes and hints of vanilla in excellent mutual balance. In the mouth it offers a bite that melts pleasantly without exceeding in sweetness, thus allowing a good balance with the icing sugar. The three Marie pandoro costs 14.90 euros.
3. Gentlemen
The 14.90 euro Gentilini pandoro of Roman production presents the traditional shape externally, while on the inside, despite exhibiting a fairly regular honeycomb pattern, it shows some larger holes. Upon olfactory examination, it stands out for a strong sensation of toffee and dulce de leche that distinguishes it, relegating the butter almost to the background. On the palate this aromatic imprint confirms itself as powerful in the opening, then giving way to biscuity tones. Soft and stringy, it has good meltability.
4. Melegatti
The company founded by Domenico Melegatti in 1894 offers a “golden star” with a well-baked base and an external surface with biscuity tones at a cost of 9.82. To the touch it is appreciated for its excellent texture, while the smell clearly reveals notes of quality butter and easily recognizable vanilla. On the palate it boasts good chewiness and a controlled sweetness that integrates harmoniously with the icing sugar.
5. Maina
The Piedmontese producer Maina presents a pandoro with a classic shape that offers pleasant olfactory sensations characterized by a delicate perception of good quality butter, the cost is 9.48. On the palate the entry is decidedly buttery, then attenuates and re-emerges in the final phase. Appreciable for its aromatic characteristics and good ability to dissolve.
6. Chests
The pandoro from the historic Veronese brand of Castel d’Azzano costs 6.99 and shows a generous base and an intense yellow tone interior. It has a good balance in the olfactory profile, while on the palate the central part is soft, with a slightly firmer consistency approaching the rind. The buttery taste sensation is delicate but enveloping. The finish presents discreet persistence.
7. Toy
Pandoro Balocco costs 5.99 euros, and stands out for a uniform and coherent structure, both externally and with regard to the dense internal porosity. A light note of caramel emerges on the nose accompanied by a balanced buttery sensation. In the mouth it shows good softness and moderate elasticity, with a caramelized tone which however excessively accentuates the perceived sweetness. The tendency is towards fracturing rather than spinning.
In short, if you want to make a good impression at the table this year, Galup is the choice that does not disappoint. Sure, it costs a few euros more, but you can feel the quality. For those looking for a good compromise between price and taste, Tre Marie and Gentilini are excellent alternatives. What if the budget is limited? Balocco and Bauli, although not winning the ranking, remain honest pandoros who will make adults and children happy without emptying their wallets. One thing is certain: whichever pandoro you choose, the important thing is to enjoy it in company. Happy Holidays
