Visiting Spoleto means entering a city that needs no introduction: just walk to notice its wonders. Uphill alleys, light stone, sudden views that open onto the Umbrian valley. But many of these places are familiar to those who are fans of fiction and not by chance. Here, for years, it has come to life Don Matteothe Rai 1 series that is accompanying millions of viewers every Thursday evening with its fifteenth season. Visiting Spoleto is also this: recognizing squares, churches and streets seen on television and discovering how fiction is intertwined with the real history of the city.
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Piazza Duomo, the heart of the city (and of the series)
Our itinerary could only start from Piazza Duomo, one of the most scenic places in Umbria. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, with its long staircase, dominates the scene and is one of the main locations of Don Matteo. In the series, the most symbolic places are concentrated here: the rectory and the Carabinieri barracks.
In reality, things are a little different but the square is a perfect observation point to understand Spoleto: tourists sitting on the steps, the silence interrupted only by footsteps and that feeling of balance between monumentality and everyday life. Not far away is Palazzo Bufalini, used for external shots of the barracks. In person it appears discreet, almost camouflaged in the urban context.
The church of Don Matteo and the Bishop’s Palace
Continuing on foot you reach one of the most recognizable places for fans of the series: the Basilica of Sant’Eufemia, the real church of Don Matteo. It is hidden inside the Archbishop’s Palace, built on the ancient Lombard structures. Here fiction has found an authentic environment, far from artificial reconstructions. Entering the courtyard is like stepping back in time. The church, simple and Romanesque, tells of a less flashy Spoleto but profoundly consistent with the spirit of the series: discreet, human, everyday.
Alleys, houses and bike rides
One of the most fascinating aspects of the trip was getting lost in the historic center, following the same roads traveled by Don Matteo and Marshal Cecchini. In Via Fontesecca you can find the exteriors of their homes in the fiction, while Corso Garibaldi, Via dell’Arringo, Via delle Mura and Via di Visiale are often the scene of the famous walks and cycling scenes when Don Matteo was still played by Terence Hill. Walking here, you realize how Spoleto is not just a location, but a real character in the series.
From the fictional prison to the symbols of the city
Moving slightly away from the center we arrive at perhaps the most evocative place on our itinerary: the Ponte delle Torri. Although access is limited today, the view remains breathtaking. It is here that Don Matteo’s bicycle crossed one of the most iconic panoramas of the series, with the Rocca Albornoziana in the background. In the fiction, the Fortress resumes its ancient function as a prison. In reality, it dominates Spoleto from above and tells centuries of history, between power, control and cultural rebirth.
Spoleto, beyond fiction
The trip to Spoleto left us with the feeling of a city that does not live by reflex. Don Matteo is an added value, not the only key to understanding. The series accompanies the visitor, guides him through views and details, but then leaves room for personal discovery. Whether you come for fiction, for art or simply to walk without haste, Spoleto manages to do a rare thing: remain authentic. A small spoiler for those who, like me, suffer from claustrophobia or don’t like closed spaces so as not to arrive unprepared: it is advisable to visit Spoleto with the help of the escalators initially and then the free lifts made available by the Municipality. Alternatively, with a little training, you can go up on foot but be careful: the road is quite steep!
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