On Christmas Eve, when smoked salmon becomes the protagonist of appetizers, canapés and festive dishes, choosing among the many options available in Italian supermarkets can make the difference. Gambero Rosso offers a reliable compass and has published a new ranking dedicated to the best smoked salmon available in large-scale retail trade. An in-depth analysis that compared 54 products and which rewarded, among others, some Esselunga and Lidl products.
Smoked salmon now occupies a permanent place on Christmas tables and in the refrigerated counters of supermarkets. Behind the shiny appearance and intense taste, however, there are well-known critical issues, such as the environmental impact of intensive farming, the high consumption of resources, the use of antibiotics and issues related to animal welfare. Elements to consider also emerge on the nutritional front, starting from an often high salt content and the possible presence of preservatives or residues from industrial processing.
For those who do not intend to give up smoked salmon during the holidays, the new Gambero Rosso survey represents a useful point of reference. The test comes six years after the previous survey and was conducted through a blind tasting of 54 samples purchased in Roman supermarkets: 48 farmed salmon and 6 wild. The products will be judged by a panel of chefs, food and wine journalists and experts in the fishing sector, called to exclusively evaluate organoleptic parameters such as appearance, aroma, flavor and consistency. No evaluation concerned labels, certifications, origin or farming method.
The declared objective was to measure the real quality of smoked salmon sold in large-scale retail trade. The result is a severe classification, which saves only a few products, selected for a higher quality standard than the market average.
The ranking of smoked salmon
At the top of the general ranking we find Esselunga Top, indicated as the best of the entire test. It is a Norwegian salmon processed with particular care and subjected to light and well-calibrated smoking. The meat is compact and firm, the color appears vivid, the taste maintains a precise balance between marine notes and hints of smoke. The absence of defects makes it the most harmonious and centered product of the selection. Indicative price: 5.90 euros per 100 grams.
Alongside Esselunga there are specialized brands such as Fumara Foodlab, Norita, The Icelander, Consilia and La Nef, with salmon characterized by artisanal processing, dry salting and delicate smoking. Clean aromatic profiles, well-structured consistencies and measured smoke management explain the good ratings obtained, even if prices are often higher than standard proposals.
Among the most accessible large-scale retail products, Gastronomia di Mare – Lidl stands out, the only salmon from the German discount store to enter the selection of the best. The smoked Norwegian salmon from the Lidl line, produced by Mowi, is already sliced, with a bright color and a strong texture. On the palate it offers a strong marine taste, a marked flavor and a clearly perceptible smoke. The scent shows umami and vegetal nuances, while the structure is slightly fibrous. A product that conquers for its quality-price ratio, particularly interesting in view of the Christmas menus. Price: 3.49 euros per 100 grams.
The ranking of wild salmon
A separate chapter concerns wild salmon, often perceived as automatically superior. The test results tell a different reality: only two products managed to enter the final selection, confirming that quality depends above all on the processing, the freshness of the raw material and the smoking technique.
The first is Consilia – Wild smoked Alaskan salmon, obtained from sockeye salmon caught in the north-eastern Pacific (FAO 67) and MSC certified. Processed by Foodlab with beech wood smoke and salt, it features red and low-fat meats, with a savory and persistent taste, enriched by notes of natural smoke, citrus fruits and exotic fruit.
Followed by Sea Gastronomy – Wild smoked Sockeye salmon, once again under the Lidl brand. MSC certified and sourced from the North East Pacific, it is processed by Mowi in Poland. The result is an aromatic product, with a pasty consistency and a convincing balance between smokiness and flavor.
In a period like Christmas, in which smoked salmon becomes one of the most used ingredients in the kitchen, the Gambero Rosso ranking provides useful information for choosing with greater awareness. There are few true excellences on supermarket shelves, but some brands, such as Esselunga and Lidl, manage to stand out with products capable of exceeding the average standard.
