Pantelleria is a volcanic island 70 km from Tunisia and 100 km from Sicily, reachable by ferry from Trapani (about 6 hours) or by plane from Palermo, Catania, Rome and Milan. It has about 7,000 inhabitants, no sandy beaches, and a landscape of black lava rock that is like no other place in Italy. The main reason to come here, in addition to the sea, are its natural spas: completely free, accessible all year round, distributed in different points of the island.
How to move
The rental car is essential. The streets are narrow and winding, the spa sites are scattered, and there is no public transport system connecting them. Rent as soon as you disembark: the agencies are all close to the port of Pantelleria town. An alternative is the quad or scooter, especially useful in summer for the coastal stretches. Whatever means you choose, always keep water, old towels with you – the mud and sulfur stain permanently – and rock shoes, which come in handy at almost all sites.
The Mirror of Venus (Water Bath)
The lake occupies a volcanic caldera and is the most famous and popular thermal site. The water varies between 40 and 50 degrees depending on the spot. The mud collects directly on the shallow seabed of the south shore: just dive in, pick it up with your hands and spread it on your body, let it dry in the sun for 15-20 minutes, then rinse in water.
There is no establishment, so no changing rooms or showers: bring everything from home. In summer it is best to go early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds and the most intense heat. In spring and autumn it is almost deserted and it is the best time to experience it calmly. The bottom is muddy and slippery, so rock shoes are useful here too.
Where: north of the island, near the Bugeber district. From the town about 15 minutes by car.
Gadir
A small fishing village with white dammusi overlooking the sea. The thermal pools are carved directly into the lava rock on the edge of the Mediterranean, with temperatures between 39 and 50 degrees. You dive and observe the open sea: it is one of the most visually beautiful experiences on the island.
In summer the pools are small and very busy, so the best time is sunset or out of season. Gadir also works well in the evening, with the island lit up and the dark sea ahead. In the surrounding area there are small bars where you can eat something simple.
Where: north-eastern side, about 10 km from the town. You park on the edge of the road and walk down.
Sataria Cave
A natural cave open to the sea with three internal tanks fed by springs at around 40 degrees. The water is rich in minerals, traditionally used for joint pain and rheumatism. The cave is small and few people enter at a time, making it intimate but crowded in the summer months.
The ideal moment is sunset, when the light enters from the cave and changes color on the walls. The walk from the road is short but you are walking on slippery rock, so it’s best to keep your shoes closed until you reach the entrance. In the low season or in the early morning you have it almost all to yourself.
Where: south-western coast, between Scauri and Rekale. It can be reached on foot from a small car park on the coastal road.
Benikulà Dry Bath
It is not a water bath but a natural geothermal sauna. A cave divided into two environments: the first cooler, the second full of hot steam at around 38 degrees that rises from a crack in the rock. You sit on the lava stone benches and sweat exactly like in a traditional sauna, with the difference that everything around is a volcanic mountain.
Bring plenty of water to drink because sweating is intense, and avoid the central hours of summer when the heat from the steam added to the outside heat becomes excessive. The path crosses a wild area with spectacular views of the African sea: it is worth the route even for the landscape alone. The ideal is to combine it with a swim in the sea immediately afterwards.
Where: central area of the island, on the slope of the Montagna Grande. It can be reached on foot along a path that takes about 20-30 minutes from the car park near the Benikulà district.
Le Favare (Favara Grande)
They are not spas to immerse yourself in, but natural geothermal emissions: jets of steam and boiling gases, up to 100 degrees, that come out of the rocks. The ground smokes, the rocks are orange and red due to the sulphur. A lunar landscape that is worth a visit even just to understand what the island under your feet is made of.
Don’t get too close to the cracks because the temperatures are dangerous. The smell of sulfur is strong and persistent, so those with respiratory problems are better off avoiding it. The most sensible stop is to include it during a hike on the Montagna Grande, as a stopping point in the middle of the route.
Where: slopes of the Montagna Grande, reachable on foot from the town of Sibà or from some marked paths.
Nicà springs
The springs flow between the rocks and mix directly with the sea. The water reaches very high temperatures in some places, but mixing with the sea creates areas of variable and pleasant temperatures. The landscape is wild, with sulfur and silica deposits visible on the black rocks. There is a small landing place for fishing boats: arriving by sea is possible and very suggestive. Before diving, always check the temperature with your hand, because the hottest spots are dangerous.
Where: south-western coast, isolated and poorly signposted area. Better to ask for directions in town or use an updated offline map.
When to go
September and October are the best time of all: minimal crowds, still warm sea, ideal temperatures for excursions. April and May offer similar conditions, with the landscape green and the sites virtually deserted, although the sea water is still fresh. June, July and August guarantee the perfect climate for combining sea and spa, but the most famous sites such as the Mirror of Venus and Gadir get crowded, and the heat in the caves can be excessive in the central hours. From November to March the island is almost empty, prices drop significantly and the atmosphere becomes unique, but you have to take into account the strong winds and some ferries suspended due to bad weather.
Costs and what to bring
All the natural spas described are free and open. You don’t need to book anything. The only expense is to get there: ferry or plane, rental car, accommodation. The dammusi – the typical lava stone houses – are the most widespread and characteristic solution, which can be rented through the usual portals at much lower prices out of season.
Always put old towels, rock shoes, plenty of water, thick sunscreen and something warm for the wind that can suddenly pick up in your backpack. Download an offline map before leaving: in some internal areas there is no connection.
