Rock walls that open like theatrical curtains, crystal clear water falling from a hidden cave and steam dancing among the centuries-old beech trees. Those who arrive at the Fontanone di Goriuda find it hard to believe that they are still in Italy, because the landscape evokes Icelandic waterfalls, the ones that populate postcards and nature documentaries, when in reality we are just a few kilometers from Udine, in Val Raccolana.
The waterfall arises from a particular geological phenomenon, in which the water, which falls like snow and rain on the Canin massif, makes an underground journey several kilometers long. It infiltrates the limestone rocks, passes through meanders and caves, travels through tunnels dug over millennia of erosion, then, when it finally finds an exit, it explodes into the light in a show of power and beauty. The jump is impressive: the water rushes from the upper cave with a force that varies according to the seasons, ending up in a body of water so transparent that it seems unreal.
A dive into nature accessible to all
Reaching this natural jewel is very simple. From Chiusaforte you go up the valley towards Sella Nevea and, shortly after the town of Piani, you will find the car park at the Al Fontanon restaurant. The name of the inn leaves no doubt about the destination. From there a path starts that crosses a majestic beech forest: in ten minutes, walking on a route also suitable for families, you find yourself in front of the waterfall.
The forest that embraces the Fontanone deserves attention as much as the waterfall itself. The beech trees create a green canopy in spring and summer, while in autumn they light up with reds, yellows and oranges that compete with the panoramas of the Scandinavian Alps. The constant humidity, fed by the spray of the waterfall, favors lush vegetation which gives the place an almost primordial atmosphere.
The secret behind the waterfall
Few know that the Fontanone can be admired from a unique perspective: a path allows you to pass behind the jet of water, protected by a natural rocky cave, an absolutely privileged position, which guarantees an unusual view of the valley, Mount Montasio and Cimone. The experience of observing the landscape through the curtain of water leaves an indelible memory. The path that leads behind the waterfall is safe but requires a minimum of attention, especially when the ground is wet.
The underground part of the Fontanone represents a world apart. The guides of the Julian Prealps Park organize speleological excursions that allow you to go up the stream inside the mountain. You cross the first flooded room with a dinghy, then continue along an equipped path that reveals the bowels of the earth from which the waterfall originates, for what is an adventure in all respects, for anyone who wants to go beyond the visible surface.
When to visit it
The Fontanone changes face according to the seasons. Between May and June the water flow reaches its maximum: the melting of the snow transforms the waterfall into a roaring dragon that hurls thousands of liters per second. The roar can be heard from a distance, and getting closer means being surrounded by a cloud of droplets that refresh the air. In autumn the power diminishes, even if the colors of the forest offer a different, more intimate and intimate beauty. Photographers prefer this season for the contrasts of light and shadow that play among the golden foliage.
Winter offers a spectacle for a few: when temperatures drop below zero, the waterfall partially freezes and creates ice sculptures that hang from the rocks like crystal candelabra. Experienced mountaineers come to climb these frozen flows, in an undertaking that requires technique and courage.
A territory to discover
The Fontanone is not the only attraction in the area. Val Raccolana is home to other smaller waterfalls, locally called “fontanoni”, which dot the rocky walls. Near Goriuda there is also the Il Rifugio dei Folletti educational farm, perfect for families traveling with children. The animals and activities offered complete a day in nature with an educational and fun touch.
This corner of Friuli demonstrates that you don’t need to fly to Iceland to admire breathtaking landscapes, and sometimes you just need to get up from the sofa, put a backpack on your shoulder and travel a few kilometres. Wonder awaits around the corner, hidden in the woods of the Julian Prealps.
