You realize you have arrived in Scilla, a small village on the Costa Viola in Calabria, when the road descends gently from Aspromonte and suddenly the sea of the Strait appears, intense and bright. The first sensation is that of a suspended place, where the houses cling to the rock and every glimpse seems ready for a photograph. The very name of the city recalls ancient myths and legends, and walking through the streets you really perceive that dimension between history and tale that makes the place unique.
The only way to visit Scilla is to move on foot but be careful that finding parking, especially in high season, is one of the major problems. Scilla is visited slowly, without rushing, because every corner invites you to stop. The scent of the sea reaches everywhere and the sound of the waves accompanies the walk, even when you are far from the beach.
The sunset over the Strait: an indelible memory
Precisely to avoid the chaos during the day and to enjoy the atmosphere more, I decided to arrive here at the end of the day with the sunset light illuminating the houses and the profile of the castle. A magical moment for those like me who love seeing the sun go down behind the sea. And then Scilla completely changes her face in the evening, becoming even more suggestive. The alleys slowly fill up and the sea always remains there, a silent protagonist. That sunset is a precious memory that I still carry within me.
Chianalea, the Venice of the South seen up close
The first stop was Chianalea, the oldest and probably the most evocative neighborhood. Here the fishermen’s houses are built directly on the rocks and the narrow streets really resemble small calli. Walking in this village means finding yourself just a few centimeters from the water, with boats moored under the windows and restaurants housed in ancient warehouses.
I reached Scaro Alaggio, one of the most photographed points. The fishermen here set their nets while the sea moves slowly between the boats. A little further on you come across Palazzo Scategna and Villa Zagari, buildings that add an elegant touch to an already scenographic context. In this stretch time seems to stop and the sensation is that of living in an authentic seaside village.
The climb to Ruffo Castle and the view over the Strait
From Chianalea I began the climb towards Castello Ruffo, visible from practically every point of the city. The fortress dominates the promontory and the path to reach it already offers spectacular views. Once you reach the top, the view opens up completely onto the sea and the Strait of Messina, with Sicily clearly visible on the horizon which gives you the sensation of almost being able to touch it. A truly unique emotion.
Walking between courtyards and walls you can perceive the strategic position of the castle, contested for centuries by different dominations. The most surprising part remains the viewpoint: from here the sea changes color continuously, going from intense blue to turquoise. It’s one of those spots where it’s worth stopping for a few minutes simply admiring the view.
The Mother Church of the Immaculate Conception between history, reconstructions and art
Among the stops not to be missed is the Mother Church of the Immaculate Conception, rebuilt several times over the centuries after the earthquakes that marked the history of the city. The current building dates back to 1970, but retains older elements such as the marble colonnade with six Ionic columns and the 17th century statue of the Immaculate Conception on the facade.
Inside, the space is large and bright, divided into three naves with a wooden trussed ceiling and a high altar decorated with polychrome marble. What immediately catches the eye is the large mosaic on the altar, which depicts an Angel illuminated by the Holy Spirit with the houses of Scylla in the background. Among the works present there are also a marble sculpture of Saint Peter, attributed to the Bernini school, and several paintings of artistic value which further enrich the environment.
The beaches and the crystal clear sea
As mentioned, I visited Scilla just after sunset, opting not to stop by the sea. However, those who want to spend a day on the beach have plenty to choose from. You can opt for Marina Grande, the largest and most popular beach. The golden sand and the clear sea create a perfect contrast with the castle that dominates from above. The atmosphere is relaxed and the view always remains the protagonist.
Those looking for quieter corners can head towards Punta Pacì or the Spiaggia delle Sirene, ideal for diving and snorkelling. Cala delle Rondini is more hidden, less crowded and immersed in a natural context. Even if you stay for a few hours, it is easy to understand why the sea of Scilla is considered among the most beautiful in Calabria.
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