There are places that look like postcard views and the Crete Senesi, in the heart of Tuscany, give exactly this sensation. A few kilometers from Siena, towards the south-east, the landscape suddenly changes: the hills become soft waves of clay, the colors go from gray to beige to ocher and nature takes on an almost lunar appearance. Here the soil tells an ancient story, born millions of years ago when this part of Tuscany was submerged by the sea.
During our journey we passed through endless dirt roads, panoramic curves and small villages suspended in time. The biancane, the gullies and the barren expanses alternate with green fields, cypresses and isolated farmhouses that seem to have come out of a painting. It is a different Tuscany from the more touristy one of the Val d’Orcia: quieter, more essential and perhaps for this reason even more fascinating.
Asciano and the famous Viale dei Cipressi
The first stop was Asciano, one of the symbolic villages of the Crete Senesi. The historic center still retains its medieval layout and is dominated by the scenic Torre della Mencia. Walking through its streets means coming across historic buildings, ancient churches and small glimpses that tell centuries of Sienese history. The Collegiate Church of Sant’Agata is very beautiful, while the Museum of Palazzo Corboli houses precious works of the Sienese school.
Just outside the village we reached one of the most photographed places in Tuscany: the famous Viale dei Cipressi of Baccoleno. The private road that winds through the hills with its sinuous course has now become an international icon. From the panoramic point near the provincial road an incredible view opens up: perfectly aligned cypresses, soft hills and an almost unreal silence. One of those places where you stay still for a few minutes without even realizing it.
Buonconvento: the medieval pearl of Crete
Among the villages that surprised us the most there is certainly Buonconvento, defined not by chance as “the pearl of the Crete Senesi“. The name derives from the Latin “Bonus Conventus”, meaning “happy place”, and you just need to walk a few minutes in the historic center to understand why. The medieval walls enclose a small jewel made of red brick buildings, quiet alleys and historic buildings.
The main street is Via Soccini, the heart of the village, overlooked by the suggestive Palazzo Podestarile with the Clock Tower and the Church of Saints Peter and Paul. Here time seems to really slow down. We also visited the Museum of Sacred Art of the Val d’Arbia, housed in the ancient Palazzo Ricci Soccini, where a splendid work by Duccio di Buoninsegna is preserved. Buonconvento is also the ideal place to breathe the most authentic soul of Tuscany, among shops, the scent of pecorino cheese and views that seem built specifically to be photographed.
Rapolano Terme and relaxation in the heart of the Crete
After the medieval villages we took a break in Rapolano Terme, surrounded by hills and postcard landscapes. Here the real protagonists are the historic thermal waters, already known in Roman times. The Antica Querciolaia and Terme di San Giovanni establishments offer hot pools, hydromassages and relaxation areas surrounded by the Tuscan countryside.
But Rapolano is not just spas. In the surrounding area you will discover wonderful panoramic roads, vineyards and small villages such as Serre di Rapolano, where the Ancient Grancia and Oil Museum is located. Also interesting is the link with travertine, the light stone extracted here for centuries and used to build famous monuments in Tuscany. What can we say about the view of all the Tuscan hills, truly breathtaking!
The stretch on the Via Francigena between Monteroni d’Arbia and Grancia di Cuna
However, one of the best moments of our trip to the Crete Senesi was realizing a dream we had had for years: traveling a stretch of the Via Francigena. Unfortunately, having only one afternoon available before returning home, we chose to travel a few kilometers from Monteroni d’Arbia to the spectacular Grancia di Cuna, then continuing further arriving at a magnificent view of the cypresses. Walking here means completely immersing yourself in the nature of the Crete Senesi: rolling hills, dirt roads, absolute silence and the wind that accompanies every step.
The Grancia di Cuna suddenly appears like a medieval red brick fortress in the middle of the countryside. This extraordinary fortified agricultural complex was born in the Middle Ages as a hospital for pilgrims and then became one of the large granaries of the Santa Maria della Scala Hospital in Siena. Even today it preserves walls, towers and walkways that tell the story of the Francigena’s past. No crowds, no noise, just the landscape of the Crete Senesi before your eyes and that rare sensation of truly feeling like you’re part of the journey. It was a short and simple but very intense experience and we already fell in love with it. We’ll be back to taste more, that’s a promise.
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