In the beating heart of Milan, between modern skyscrapers and the frenetic rhythm of the Lombard metropolis, a corner of history is hidden that seems to have been spared from the passage of time. Vicolo dei Lavandai, located in the Navigli district, represents one of the last authentic fragments of Milan of the past, a place that tells stories of daily life and now forgotten traditions, recently restored.
A dip in the Milanese past
Vicolo dei Lavandai overlooks the Naviglio Grande, in an area that was once the center of the lavender activity of the city. This narrow passage, hidden among the buildings in via Corsico, still retains the ancient “washing”, a stone tank where the Milanese “washering” (laveled) washed the role for the wealthy families of the city until the 1950s of the last century.
The peculiarity of this alley is its perfectly preserved sink, complete with stone to be washed inclined (the “píöra”) where the clothes were rubbed with the soap before being rinsed in the water of the Naviglio. It is one of the last examples of this structure, testimony of a now disappeared profession.
The Lavandai alley takes its name not from the washerwomen, but from the laveles, since in the nineteenth century they were mainly men who dealt with the washing service of the clothes, organized in a real confraternity. This association, the confraternity of the laveles of Milan, dates back to the 1700s.
Sant’Antonio from Padua is their saint protector, and an altar is dedicated to him in the nearby church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio, located about 100 meters from the alley, along the lifting Naviglio Grande. The stream, called “El Fosott” in Milanese dialect, is fed by the waters of the Naviglio Grande.
Once upon a time, the washerwomen knelt on a wooden “brillin”, rubbing the clothes on the stone stalls still visible today in the alley. The material used for washing, known as “Pallon”, was a semi -condense pasta based on ash, soap and soda.
The mystery of the survivor alley
What makes Vicolo of the washerwashing really special is the fact that it has survived the modernization that has invested Milan over the years. While most of the citizens of the city was covered in the 1930s to leave room for avenues and streets, and while the Navigli district suffered profound transformations, this small corner has remained almost intact.
Legend has it that the alley was “forgotten” by the urban planners during the redevelopment plans, thus allowing him to keep his original appearance. Others argue that some influential inhabitants of the time have fought for its conservation, aware of the historical value of this place.
The secret life of the alley
Another fascinating element of Vicolo dei Lavandai is its unique atmosphere. Entering in this narrow and shaded passage, the sound of the modern city suddenly disappears, replaced by the peaceful flow of the water of the Naviglio. The ancient walls, the climbing plants and the original architectural details create an almost magical atmosphere, as if the weather had stopped.
Until the 70s, the alley housed the historic “La Magolfa” tavern, a meeting point for Milanese artists, writers and intellectuals. Today, in the same position, there is a place that keeps this tradition alive.
Uncovered but not too much
Although it is now present in the most detailed tourist guides in Milan, Vicolo dei Lavandai remains surprisingly not very crowded. Its hidden position, accessible only through a passage not immediately visible from via Corsico, protects it from mass tourism. Many Milanese themselves ignore the existence of this historical jewel, or have only vaguely heard about it.
It is precisely this “secret” nature that makes it so special: an authentic corner of Milanese history that resists, almost timidly, in the shadow of modern and frenetic Milan, ready to tell their stories to those who have the curiosity to look for it.
