Many use it every day without knowing it, in fact it is found in sun creams, foundations and even some perfumes. We are talking about octocrylene, a substance that serves to protect the skin from UV rays but also to keep cosmetic formulas stable. However, behind these positive points lies a serious problem: octocrylene pollutes seas, lakes and rivers and also has controversial effects on human health.
Every year in Europe thousands of tonnes of octocrylene are used in cosmetic products and much of this substance, after daily use, ends up in purification systems or directly into seas, rivers and lakes, putting aquatic life at risk. The fact that it is present in sunscreens is a big problem as even a simple swim in the sea helps to release the substance into the water.
In addition to the environmental effects, octocrylene also presents some possible health risks. A Franco-American study published in Chemical Research in Toxicology has shown that, over time, the octocrylene contained in sunscreens can degrade to form benzophenone, a substance classified as a suspected human carcinogen (Group 2B) by the IARC and endocrine disruptor.
The research analyzed 17 common suncare products (brands such as Garnier, Bioderma, Roche Posay, L’Oréal) by subjecting them to accelerated stability tests. The results showed that almost all samples contained benzophenone, with concentrations increasing as the product aged, sometimes doubling or tripling. The study therefore reinforces the idea that cosmetics containing octocrylene may pose long-term risks.
To limit the use of this substance, ANSES has submitted a formal proposal to ECHA.
Anses’ proposal
The French National Agency for Health Safety (Anses) has asked ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) to reduce the maximum concentration of octocrylene in cosmetics to 0.001% weight/volume.
At this threshold, the substance would practically lose all effectiveness as a UV filter and stabilizer, effectively making its use in cosmetic products impossible. Companies should reformulate products, especially solar, with an economic impact deemed moderate and sustainable.
A drastic reduction that promises significant benefits for marine ecosystems and fresh waters and studies on thousands of consumers in Europe show that families would be willing to pay more for cosmetics without this substance, highlighting a certain sensitivity towards environmental protection.
The ANSES proposal is currently in public consultation on the ECHA website until 24 March 2026. Citizens, scientists, associations and businesses can submit observations and scientific data to contribute to the process. Subsequently, the European committees responsible for assessing the risks and socio-economic impact will analyze the comments and formulate an opinion by September 2026.
Based on these opinions, the European Commission will be able to approve the definitive restriction. If the measure is adopted, it will be a significant step in the fight against chemical pollution from cosmetics, following the path already traced by restrictions on other substances harmful to the marine environment.
We will see whether the French proposal will be seriously considered by the EU. In the meantime, as consumers we can still orient ourselves towards choosing products without octocrylene.
Look for octocrylene on the label
To understand if a cosmetic contains octocrylene, the first step is to carefully check the INCI (the list of ingredients) on the packaging.
Whenever possible, we choose products formulated with mineral filters such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which protect the skin without accumulating in the ecosystem and without degrading into potentially dangerous substances such as benzophenone.
