How many times have we taken a pack of Carnaroli rice from the shelf, trusting only the label “the king of risottos”? In reality, behind the same name hide products that are very different from each other in terms of grain quality, aroma and cooking behaviour. A panel of Gambero Rosso experts provided clarity, putting the main large-scale retail brands to the blind test. The result is a useful ranking to orient ourselves the next time we go shopping.
Why Carnaroli is so loved
Carnaroli is not just any rice, compared to other risotto varieties, such as Arborio, it stands out for its large, tapered and slightly pot-bellied grain, capable of releasing the right amount of starch to obtain that enveloping creaminess that makes a truly successful risotto. It absorbs liquids and condiments well and, above all, maintains a pleasant consistency even after cooking: it does not fall apart or become sticky, but remains compact and “al dente”. It is no coincidence that it is the favorite choice of many chefs, even when cooking for large numbers.
How to recognize a good Carnaroli (even before cooking it)
According to industry experts, a lot can be understood from the appearance of the grain. A quality Carnaroli should be large, rounded and elongated, with a pearl white color and an opaque heart that can be easily distinguished from the more translucent part. Instead, signs of less accurate processing should be considered: broken beans, stains, chalky granules or the presence of different varieties mixed in the package.
The nose and palate also tell a lot: when raw, a good Carnaroli releases delicate notes of straw, fresh starch and hazelnut; once cooked, it is enriched with hints of freshly baked bread, boiled milk and ripe cereal. In the mouth it should be full, basically sweet, and leave a clean sensation. Another indication of quality is how well it holds up during cooking: the grains must remain clearly distinct from each other, with a slight resistance to the bite, without becoming glassy or sticky.
The ranking: the best Carnaroli in the supermarket
Here is how, in summary, the products examined by the panel performed:
Some practical advice for your next risotto
Regardless of the brand chosen, some precautions always make the difference: correctly toasting the rice before adding the liquid, the use of a good broth (better if homemade) and a final creaming away from the heat, perhaps with a knob of butter or a drizzle of quality extra virgin olive oil. And if the grain you have chosen tends to fall apart easily, don’t be afraid to shorten the cooking times by a couple of minutes compared to what is indicated on the package: the result will be a creamier risotto with a decidedly better hold.
In short, the next time you are in front of the rice shelf, knowing what to look for – in the appearance of the grain, in the aroma and in its cooking properties – can really make the difference between any dish and a risotto to remember.
