Have you ever read the list of ingredients of the panettone you buy? If you are a careful consumer, probably yes. What’s really in our Christmas dessert? The traditional panettone recipe includes only a few simple ingredients but, too often, especially in industrial production, various types of food additives are added.
The traditional panettone recipe: what the law requires
The panettone recipe is well defined by an official specification which, if not respected, would prevent the use of the very name of this Christmas leavened product.
A 2005 decree establishes that to be considered panettone, the dessert must contain specific ingredients:
These ingredients are mandatory but it is possible to add others. Optional ingredients allowed include milk, honey, malt and cocoa butter. Then there are flavourings, as well as emulsifiers and preservatives (exclusively sorbic acid and sorbates), which fall into the category of food additives.
What are food additives?
Food additives are substances used to improve the characteristics of foods or drinks. They are not intended for direct consumption, but are added for reasons such as prolonging shelf life, improving the texture, appearance or taste of products.
In the case of panettone, some additives such as mono and diglycerides of fatty acids act as emulsifiers, improving the softness and shelf life of the dessert. Others, such as glucose-fructose and invert sugar, are used to sweeten and reduce production costs.
A new one investigation of The Lifesaver has put some under the microscope industrial and artisanal panettonesown on the hunt for food additives.
The food additives present in the Motta, Balocco and Tre Marie panettone
Between the best-known brands mentioned are Motta, Balocco and Tre Marie, three “big” brands in the sector.
These panettones contain mono and diglycerides of fatty acidsalong with a surplus of sugars. In the case of Motta and Balocco, glucose-fructose syrup is present, while in the Tre Marie panettone there is invert sugar.
Additives such as mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids, emulsifiers that improve texture and softness, and glucose-fructose syrup, which helps maintain the moisture and freshness of panettone, are used to improve shelf life and quality of the product. Furthermore, invert sugar, which replaces honey, also serves to maintain humidity and prolong the freshness of the dessert.
These additives make panettone cheaper to produce and more long-lasting, but make them in all respects less natural and further from the traditional recipe.
Naturally, these three brands are just an example of a much larger market, many other similar products also use food additives.
And the artisanal panettone?
However, the use of additives is not limited to industrial panettone. Some artisanal panettoni also include “extra” ingredients. For example, the Classic Milan Panettone by Flaminghi, despite boasting artisanal processing, it contains mono and diglycerides of fatty acids and glucose and fructose syrup.
Also the artisanal panettone Misterfoodie it is mentioned as it contains palm oil, a vegetable fat which, although permitted in other products, is not permitted by the 2005 regulation for the preparation of panettone, which only allows cocoa butter as a vegetable fat.
Panettone al Cicirittu pistachio, defined as “Most purchased Sicilian Artisan Panettone in Italy”, contains mono and diglycerides of fatty acids. Furthermore, palm oil and palm kernel oil are present in the filling and covering. To emphasize the green color of the pistachio, the color E141, copper chlorophyll, was also added, which has no negative effects on health, but which would not be necessary in an artisanal product prepared with natural pistachio.
And gluten-free panettone?
In gluten-free panettone, the lack of this substance causes problems in leavening and in the final consistency. To solve these problems, additives such as hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose, starches, gums and psyllium fiber are used.
Although useful for the preparation, an abuse of these ingredients can alter the intestinal flora, so it is important to choose products that do not excessively use additives and respect the mandatory ingredients provided for by the 2005 decree.
Pay attention to the ingredients: always read the labels
For those looking for a truly authentic product that respects the traditional recipe and is free of additives, it is essential to read the labels carefully, even in the case of artisanal panettone. However, the best choice is to rely on a good bakery or pastry shop.
