If you are among those who claim that today’s tomatoes no longer have the flavor of the past, you are not alone. It is now a widespread opinion, especially among those who remember the rich and authentic taste of the tomatoes gained in the sun, perhaps collected by a vegetable garden in the countryside.
Today, however, in many supermarkets we find ourselves in front of tomatoes with a hard pulp, with a thicker peel and a less inviting aroma. But Behind this change there is not only a nostalgia effect: There is a precise cause, which has its roots in the evolution of modern agricultural practices and in the needs of large retailers.
The change of varieties and industrial evolution
Starting from the post -war periodthe production of tomatoes has undergone a series of radical transformations, oriented to satisfy a growing demand and make the product more resistant, lasting and easily transportable. The most traditional varieties, those that grew in the countryside and that had a richer flavor, were gradually replaced by new cultivars selected for their resistance to diseases and their ability to bear the conditions of transport and conservation. The introduction of F1 hybrid varieties, for example, made sure that the tomatoes became uniform, beautiful to see, but less tasty. The priority was to guarantee a higher yield, rather than preserving the taste.
The selection for resistance and durability has inevitably had a negative impact on the gustatory profile of tomatoes. The increase in turgor in cells, which makes the tomatoes more robust, has led to an increase in the amount of water in the fruits. Although this would make the most resistant tomatoes against damage during harvest and transport, it had the side effect of diluting the substances that give the fruit its flavor and its aroma. The result? More watery tomatoes, but less tasty.
The genetics of taste: the Tomloxc gene
An important discovery was made by a team of international researchers who analyzed the genome of 725 varieties of tomato. They identified that about 93% of modern domestic tomato varieties lack a version of the Tomloxc gene, fundamental for the production of volatile compounds responsible for the flavor of the fruit. On the contrary, over 90% of the wild tomato varieties have this version of the gene, suggesting that the selection for characteristics other than taste has led to its loss in modern varieties
The thicker peel and the altered consistency
Another fundamental element that has influenced the change of flavor is the peel of the tomato. With the search for more resistant varieties and suitable for long conservation, the peel has become thicker, further reducing the perceived flavor. The thick peel not only alters the consistency of the tomato, making it less pleasant on the palate, but also gives a more harsh flavor, which can compromise the taste experience.
The smaller variety of tomato, such as that of the cherryin, has seen an increase in large retailers, in part for its higher resistance, but also because it was better preserved during transport. However, this has led to a less sweet tomato, often more acidic and less aromatic than those grown in the traditional way.
The effect of collection and conservation
Another aspect that affects the taste of tomatoes is the method of harvesting. Most of the tomatoes that we find in supermarkets are collected when it is still unripe and continue to mature during transport. This process, while allowing a wider distribution and greater duration of the product, deprives the tomato of a significant part of the aromatic compounds that develop only in the final stages of the maturation.
Tomato, in fact, is a climacteric fruit, able to ripen even after being detached from the plant. The maturation process begins to decrease as soon as the fruit is separated from the plant and is no longer able to absorb the nutrients necessary to develop its aroma. If a tomato is preserved at too low temperatures, as often happens in industrial or domestic refrigerators, the production of enzymes responsible for the flavor is significantly reduced, making sure that the fruit remains unspeakable.
Possible innovation: the return of good flavor?
Despite all these problems, there is still hope. Some research groups are trying to identify the genes responsible for the taste and aroma of tomatoes, and recent studies seem to suggest that, with the use of assisted evolution techniques, it will be possible to produce tastier tomatoes without sacrificing resistance and durability, characteristics that have become fundamental in the globalized market.
In the meantime, those looking for a truly tasty tomato should pay attention to the variety they choose and prefer those that are grown according to natural or biological methods. Traditional varieties, such as San Marzano or ox heart, if cultivated carefully and collected at the right degree of maturation, can still offer that flavor that we are missing so much.
Tips to better enjoy tomato
If it is not possible to grow fresh tomatoes at home, a good advice to recover at least a little of the authentic flavor is to avoid keeping tomatoes in the refrigerator. To preserve the aroma, in fact, it is better to keep them at room temperature, especially if they are not yet ripe. If the tomatoes are already ripe, it is good to consume them as soon as possible, since with the passage of time the conservation in the refrigerator tends to turn off their flavor.
Another useful advice is to not discard the gelatin surrounding tomato seeds. This part of the fruit is rich in acids and amino acids, in particular glutamin acid, which contributes significantly to the flavor of tomato.
The change that hit the taste of tomatoes is not only a question of nostalgia, but a reality linked to the production choices of the last decades. If on the one hand the industry has made more resistant and easier to transport fruits tomatoes, on the other it has partially sacrificed the organoleptic quality of the product. The good news is that there are still ways to rediscover the true flavor of the tomato: by choosing suitable varieties, growing them at home or paying attention to their conservation, it is possible to return to taste a tomato as it should be.
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