November, which is the dormant period of the plant growing season, presents an ideal opportunity to take hardwood cuttings and start growing new trees and shrubs. These cuttings, also known as hardwood cuttings, root more slowly than softwood cuttings, which are usually taken early in the year. However, they are an ideal solution for those with less time during the main growing season, as they require minimal care in the winter months.
Let’s find out together which plants are best suited to propagation in November and the steps necessary to promote healthy and vigorous growth.
What are the hardwood cuttings to take in November
The hardwood cuttings to take in November I am:
Evergreens can be made as hardwood cuttings, but they are slower to root and the technique is slightly different. Watch out for invasive species including oriental bittersweet (Celastrus orbiculatus), the winged euonymus (Euonymus alatus); Russian olive, American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens); White mulberry (Morus alba), and various species of honeysuckle.
When to take hardwood cuttings?
The hardwood cuttings they can be taken from most deciduous shrubs, some trees and a variety of climbers. These do not bend easily, unlike softwood ones, and can be taken at any time during the dormant period, but the best times are usually just after the plants have dropped their leaves in autumn, or just before leaves break in spring; generally the most suitable time is the month of November.
How to Take Hardwood Cuttings
First of all you need to select i healthy sproutsi.e. those that have grown during the current year. Remove any growth from the tip and cut sections of about 30 centimetres, making a slanted cut at the top to drain water, and a straight cut across the base.
With elderberry, as with other plants with pithy stems, you want to be sure to cut where the shoot joins a branch. The others, however, should be cut just below a bud or pair of buds. After which you need to insert the cuttings into a hole prepared with fertile soil amended with abundant organic matter; here’s how:
Another way is to simply place the cuttings in containers, filled with free-draining growing medium, and store them in a cold frame, tunnel, or unheated greenhouse until the following fall. You just need to be very careful to make sure the cuttings don’t dry out.
Hardwood cuttings: how to proceed step by step
There propagation by cuttings of broad-leaved trees it’s quite simple; Here’s how to proceed step by step in order to achieve healthy and lush growth.
Step 1
Go out into your garden and get the longest canes you can use for cuttings. Cut the canes about 12cm.
Step 2
Remember that the point at which you make the cut on the bottom is fundamental, and to avoid making mistakes you must observe the plant. Where there is a node, or bud union, that is where the plant will produce a leaf, then a stem in the next growing season. When you make the cut you need to cut right below that knot. Cutting at the top of the cutting is less critical, and most growers actually make the cut about an inch away from the top node.
Step 3
The next step, which consists indip the cutting in rooting compoundit’s really optional. Rooting compounds help when rooting cuttings, but many plants root well without them. So, if you don’t have a rooting compound on hand, don’t worry because you can proceed anyway.
As for the choice of powder or liquid rooting compound, it doesn’t matter, both work.
Step 4
Once the cuttings have been taken, the next step is simple: take them outside and plant them in the ground. You can place them in a nursery pot filled with soil or in a bed of sand. To plant cuttings, simply make a hole in the soil with a spade or wide knife and attach the cuttings about 1.5″ to 2″ deep.
Step 5
As soon as you insert the cuttings, water them very well so as to wash the soil around the base, removing any air pockets. After that, water only when necessary to keep the soil more hydrated but not soggy. If it’s cold outside and the ground freezes, your cuttings won’t need water, just water them again when the temperature rises.
Step 6
In spring, when the cuttings start to wake up, give them water at least once a day. Keep in mind that they do not have roots, so if they are in a shaded area it is better. They will make leaves, start to grow, but may not have roots yet. Be patient. You can take one out every now and then to check the progress but if you feel resistance at the bottom, be careful as they are definitely rooting.
How to store cuttings over the winter
After taking and planting the cuttings, it is important to ensure that they are well protected during the cold months. If you have inserted them directly into the ground, choose a well-drained area and, if necessary, cover them with a layer of mulch to insulate the roots from frost. If you prefer to use containers, place them in a cold greenhouse or in a place sheltered from the wind. Even though the cuttings are dormant, check the soil periodically to make sure it doesn’t overdry; keep it slightly moist to facilitate root development.
How to treat cuttings in spring
As spring arrives, the cuttings will begin to awaken and produce new leaves. This is when you will need to increase your water intake slightly and, if the cuttings are in containers, consider whether you need to transplant them into larger pots to allow the roots to expand. Remember to place them in a semi-shaded area until they are well rooted; direct exposure to the sun could stress the new seedlings. Once the cuttings are strong, you can transfer them to their permanent place in the garden, where they will grow into new shrubs or trees.
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