What if cork waste revolutionized the fashion sector offering eco-sustainable and innovative materials? That’s what the designer asked himself Fabio Molinas before founding in 2020, together with Alessandro Sestini, Lebiuthe start-up that transforms cork dust, a residue from cork processing, into a surprising vegan leather.
Why did you think of cork as a material to revolutionize fashion?
I grew up in Sardinia, in an environment where cork processing is a centuries-old tradition. Ever since I was a child, I saw enormous quantities of dust considered a residue from processing. I played with that dust, made artifacts. So, very young, I started to wonder how could I enhance it. Once I became a designer, I began a long journey of research and development, which led me to create Lebiu.
From cork to clothing. How does this process happen?
Cork powder is recovered from the factories that produce the corks and then mixed with natural biopolymers, coming from GMO-free crops, to create a resistant, flexible and customizable material. The entire production process takes place in Italywith particular attention to the Sardinian territory. Waste collection, research and development remain in Gallura, while production is entrusted to partner companies in Lombardy and Abruzzo.
What are the characteristics of cork-based products?
Corskin, for example, is a vegan alternative to leather with a leather-like aesthetic, but free of any cruelty. It can be used to make clothing, accessories, interior coverings and automotive components. We want to offer a sustainable and innovative alternative, which valorises waste and reduces environmental impact.
In addition to Corskin, Lebiu also developed Nanocork. What is it about?
Nanocork is a natural finish based on cork microparticles and water, which can be applied directly to fabrics. It gives garments an aged effect, increasing thermal insulation and anti-static properties. Furthermore, the micronization process allows savings of up to 90% of water, chemicals and energy.
Sustainability is a fundamental value for Lebiu. How does this materialize in your business?
Sustainability is an imperative for the future of the Planet. We can no longer afford to exploit resources in an uncontrolled way. We must rethink our way of producing and consuming, adopting a more responsible and environmentally friendly approach. Sustainability must be a lifestyle, a philosophy that guides our daily choices, from morning coffee to separate waste collection. Sustainability is the common thread that guides every phase of Lebiu’s production process. We only use environmentally friendly materials and try to minimize the environmental impact in terms of CO2 emissions, water and energy consumption. But Lebiu is not only synonymous with environmental sustainability, but also social and economic. We want to create an industrial ecosystem in Sardinia, offering job opportunities and promoting the development of the territory.
What are Lebiu’s future plans?
We want to consolidate our presence in the Italian and international market, expanding the range of products and collaborating with brands that share our green philosophy. We are also working on the development of new cork-based biomaterialswith the aim of offering increasingly sustainable and innovative solutions.
Lebiu has achieved recognition such as selection for the 2024 Compasso d’Oro and the “Master of Innovation and Excellence” award from the Louis Vuitton group. What do these awards mean to you?
We are very proud of these recognitions, which they reward our commitment to innovation and sustainability. Being selected for the Compasso d’Oro is an important achievement, which pushes us to always do better. The Louis Vuitton award confirms that we are on the right path and that our vision is shared by a large international group.
What are the main challenges you faced in creating Lebiu?
The challenges were many. First of all, that of transforming waste into a high quality material. But also that of creating a company in Sardinia, where the industrial fabric is less developed than other Italian regions. Finally, make ourselves known and appreciated by the market. But thanks to passion, determination and teamwork, we managed to overcome all obstacles.
What is your message for young people who want to embark on an entrepreneurial journey in sustainable fashion?
My advice is to follow your passions, not give up in the face of difficulties and believe in your ideas. Sustainability is a rapidly developing field, which offers many opportunities for those who want to get involved and make a difference.
Lebiu is an example of how sustainability can be a driver of innovation and economic development. What is the secret of your success?
I believe the secret is passion, determination and the will to make a difference. We believed in our project from the beginning and worked hard to make it happen. Furthermore, we were lucky to find people who believed in us and supported us.
She lived in Madrid for 12 years before returning to Sardinia. What pushed you to return and create Lebiu in your homeland?
I lived in Madrid for many years and had the opportunity to work in important design studios. But I felt the need to return to Sardinia, to reconnect with my roots and make a contribution to the development of my land. Lebiu was also born from this desire to create something important in Sardinia, to demonstrate that innovation can also be done on our island and that successful companies can be created.
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