Dark chocolate that is too “bitter”: Lindt and Penny among the brands that contain the most contaminants in the test

The dark chocolateappreciated for its intense flavor and the benefits linked to the higher cocoa content compared to milk, is often considered a healthier choice. But what is really hidden behind its apparent authenticity?

We talk about it more and more often, and various analyzes over the years have identified heavy metals such as cadmium but also other contaminants such as pesticides and mineral oils in dark chocolate. This is confirmed by a new test which highlights how, in addition to the benefits, dark chocolate can hide health risks linked to the presence of unpleasant substances.

We are referring to the new investigation by Oeko-Test which he considered 21 dark chocolate bars with a declared cocoa content between 66% and 75%, of which 10 are certified organic. The products, all typical of the German market with a few exceptions, were purchased in supermarkets, organic shops and discount stores, and had a variable cost between 1.19 and 6.41 euros per 100 grams.

Several laboratories examined the samples to evaluate the correspondence between the declarations on the label and the actual contents of total sugars, fats, cocoa butter and cocoa. Subsequently, the chocolate was subjected to a rigorous analysis to identify the presence of pollutants: saturated and aromatic hydrocarbons of mineral oils (MOSH/MOAH), pesticides and heavy metals such as arsenic, lead and cadmium.

Microbiological tests were also conducted to detect mold, germs and toxins such as ochratoxin A and aflatoxin, as well as specific tests for acrylamide and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs).

For products that declared the use of vanilla or natural flavourings, the actual presence of authentic vanilla was verified. Qualified sensory experts evaluated the taste, smell and consistency of the samples, while the packages were analyzed to check the transparency of the information on the ingredients and the correctness of the Nutri-Scores indicated.

Finally, great attention was paid to the sustainability of the cocoa supply chain. Producers were asked to provide details on the origin of the cocoa beans, their commitment to avoiding child labor, their respect for human rights and the application of policies against deforestation and the use of dangerous pesticides. Only brands able to concretely demonstrate these practices for the specific batch analyzed obtained positive scores.

The results

A worrying picture emerges from the results: the following were found in several chocolate bars:

Regarding transparency and workers’ conditions: no manufacturer was able to guarantee that child labor was excluded from its supply chaina particularly widespread problem in Ghana and Ivory Coast, main cocoa exporters.

The worst chocolate bars: Lindt and Penny Market

Two brands, in particular, stood out negatively. It’s about Lindt, with his Excellence Mild bar 70% cocoa, and Penny Market Best Moments 74% cocoa. Let’s see what the test found in these products.

Lindt

The chocolate from the well-known Swiss brand was rated “unsatisfactory” for presence of MOSH at levels classified as “increased” and insufficient transparency in the production chain.

Lindt & Sprüngli was the only manufacturer in the test not to provide significant details on the supply chain, even refusing to indicate the countries of origin of the cocoa beans used. Although the company submitted a general sustainability report, no direct link could be established with the batch of chocolate examined.

German experts recall that Lindt had already come under the spotlight earlier this year for allegations related to child labor in Ghana, reported by the Swiss broadcaster SRF.

The lack of transparency raises questions about the supply chain of the tested product. Not enough evidence has been provided to demonstrate that working conditions are fair and safe or that decent wages are guaranteed. It is also unclear whether the use of highly toxic pesticides is banned or whether bans on deforestation and land conversion have been enforced over the past seven years.

As with many products analyzed, the presence of child labor in the supply chain cannot be ruled out. However, Lindt & Sprüngli has partially demonstrated that it takes measures to prevent this, as well as meeting certain corporate due diligence obligations. These include, for example, systematically analyzing risks in the supply chain and communicating social requirements to suppliers via a code of conduct.

Penny markets

As for Penny Market’s chocolate, this also received a negative rating. Among the most critical aspects of Best Moments 74% cocoa, the laboratory detected highly elevated levels of MOSH and MOSH analogues, accompanied by the presence of MOAH, a potentially carcinogenic component of the mineral oil.

The product also had traces of two pesticides and residues of an active ingredient. However, Penny responded to the analysis by providing a detailed report on the same batch of product: according to the supplier’s results, only traces of an active agent were detectable, while MOSH and MOAH were not present.

Compared to Lindt & Sprüngli, Penny has demonstrated a commitment to greater transparency regarding the supply chain. The brand has provided documents demonstrating a partial commitment to bans on deforestation, a ban on highly hazardous pesticides, and measures to prevent child labor (although it still can’t be completely ruled out).

The test also found that Penny is committed to ensuring fair and safe working conditions, implementing strategies for decent incomes and recognizing a bonus to cocoa farmers linked to the analyzed lot. This “additional” commitment goes beyond simple corporate due diligence obligations and represents a significant step towards greater social responsibility.

Despite efforts to improve sustainability, however, the results of the test on the ingredients severely penalized the product, which was classified as insufficient.