Sometimes the most extraordinary wonders are hidden a few kilometers from home, as in the case of Lake Bolsena: located in upper Lazio between the provinces of Viterbo and on the border with Umbria and Tuscany, it represents a European record that few know about: it is the largest lake of volcanic origin in Europe, with a surface area of 114 square kilometres.
Fifth in size among Italian lakes, this freshwater basin extends for 43 kilometers in perimeter and reaches a maximum depth of 151 meters.
How this water giant was born
The geological history of the lake has its roots around 360,000 years ago, when the Vulsinio volcanic complex collapsed on itself after violent eruptions. The emptying of the magma chamber caused the surface to collapse, creating an enormous caldera. The depression was formed through a series of sinkings of the ground caused by the eruptive activity of numerous volcanic vents. Over the millennia, rains and underground springs gradually filled this gigantic basin, giving rise to the body of water we admire today.
Traces of this fiery past are still visible. Two islands emerge from the center of the lake: Bisentina and Martana, remains of the last active volcanic craters. The first houses seven small oratories, a church and a convent, surrounded by lush vegetation, while the second holds a darker history: here in 535 Queen Amalasunta, daughter of Theodoric, was imprisoned and killed.
An ecosystem still alive
The bottom of the lake hides numerous gas springs, thermal waters that reach 40 degrees and waters rich in minerals. This underground geothermal system keeps the link with the ancient volcano alive. The fish fauna is rich and varied: whitefish, pike, perch and carp populate the crystalline waters, while migratory birds find refuge on the protected banks.
Local fishermen still maintain ancient traditions. In fact, the boats have a particular shape, with asymmetrical oars: the front one only serves for propulsion, while the rear one also works as a rudder. Fishermen stand while sailing, as their ancestors did centuries ago.
The mysterious phenomena of the lake
The waters of Bolsena hide curious phenomena that have fascinated generations of inhabitants. “Seits” are sudden oscillations in the water level, similar to tides but completely unpredictable, caused by the wind blowing on the surface. Even more spectacular is the anomalous wave: when the lake appears completely calm, a gigantic wave can suddenly form and crash violently against the shores, surprising anyone on the beach.
Villages rich in history
There are eight villages surrounding the lake, each with its own identity. Bolsena, which gives its name to the basin, preserves the remains of the Etruscan-Roman city of Volsinii, with the city walls and the Mercatello amphitheater. The Basilica of Santa Cristina is linked to the miracle of Corpus Domini in 1264, celebrated every year with the traditional flower display.
Montefiascone dominates the lake from above, for what is the most complete panorama of the basin. The town is famous for Est wine! East!! East!!! and for the Cathedral of Santa Margherita, one of the largest domes in Italy. Capodimonte juts out into the lake on a promontory, dominated by the Rocca Farnese with its elegant Italian gardens. Marta, a fishermen’s centre, preserves the Clock Tower and keeps the maritime traditions alive. The other villages are the following: Gradoli, Grotte di Castro, San Lorenzo Nuovo and Valentano.
A journey through time
During the Etruscan era, at least four important cities arose on the shores of the lake and archaeological excavations have brought to light necropolises, houses decorated with frescoes and mosaic floors. Recent finds include a monossile pirogue, an ancient vessel carved from a single tree trunk, now preserved in the Capodimonte museum.
Lake Bolsena is certainly an ideal destination for those looking for a break from the urban frenzy. The waters are so clean that fishermen drink them directly. The volcanic sand of the beaches, the mild climate and the Mediterranean vegetation create a perfect environment for relaxation. Just 100 kilometers from the capital, this corner of paradise remains surprisingly – and fortunately – still uncrowded, an aspect that contributes to the preservation of an atmosphere that seems to belong to another era.
