For some years in the world of research there has been talk of skins that do not come from animals, nor from plastic, but from mushrooms. These are materials obtained from the mycelium, i.e. the underground apparatus that supports the life of the mushroom. This network of filaments, when grown under controlled conditions, takes the form of a compact mass that can be worked to resemble leather. This is where Mylo and Muskin were born, two projects different in origin and characteristics, but united by the same question: can we rethink leather without farming and without petroleum derivatives?
The process is relatively simple: the mycelium is nourished with plant waste and grows in a few days or weeks, depending on the technique. Then it is transformed into sheets and finished with specific treatments that give it consistency, color and resistance. The result is a material that not only imitates the look of leather, but also the feel of it, with the difference that it does not require traditional tanning processes, known for their intensive use of water and chemicals.
Objective: to overcome animal and synthetic leather
Mylo was born in the United States as an applied research project, with the intention of developing a material that could replace animal skin on a large scale. Its composition is based mostly on mycelium and natural fibers, with the addition of a thin synthetic coating that increases its resistance. It is grown in vertical environments powered by renewable energy and in much faster time than the years required by animal agriculture. In recent years it has attracted the interest of some large fashion companies, but in 2023 production was suspended: a sign that, despite progress, bringing an innovative material to the market remains complex and expensive.
Muskin, on the other hand, was born in Italy and has a different approach. It is obtained from the mycelium of a mushroom that grows spontaneously on chestnut trunks and is processed without the addition of chemicals or synthetic components. The result is a completely biodegradable material, which does not release toxic elements and which lends itself to different uses, from coverings to accessories. If Mylo has focused on an international and industrial path, Muskin follows a more artisanal path, but maintains a strong symbolic value: it demonstrates that even in smaller supply chains it is possible to obtain real alternatives to animal leather.
Opportunities and limitations of mushroom-based materials
Both materials are part of the debate on the sustainability of fashion, a sector that for years has been at the center of criticism for its high consumption of resources and massive use of polluting substances. Animal leather involves intensive farming and high-impact tanning processes, while synthetic “skins” are often derived from petroleum and non-biodegradable. Mushrooms therefore represent an interesting option, capable of reducing environmental impact and opening up new design perspectives.
At the same time there is no shortage of limits. Mylo, although biobased, is not entirely biodegradable due to the synthetic coating. Muskin, on the contrary, is completely so, but has not yet reached the diffusion necessary to compete with conventional materials. The challenge will be to understand whether these experiments will be able to transform into stable and accessible solutions, capable of truly changing the way we produce and consume fashion.
For now, however, Mylo and Muskin tell us about a concrete possibility: that the future of materials could come from an organism often hidden from view, but fundamental to the balance of nature.
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