The salmon it is one of the undisputed protagonists of the Christmas holidays and New Year’s Eve dinners, but its consumption is also very high during the rest of the year, thanks to the “sushi mania”. But what is really hidden behind this “delicious” and increasingly expensive product?
The story, for those who are attentive, is always the same. In fact, there are now many investigations that have documented what happens in intensive salmon farming in Europe and around the world. Lastly, this month has arrived a report from Foodwatch entitled “Rotten fish: Europe’s salmon industry is out of control”.
The report examined official data, media reports and studies, arriving at shocking results: in 2023, in Norway, one in six salmon died during the growth phase in ocean nets. The main causes are infectious diseases, wounds and salmon lice infestations.
Even a few parasites are lethal for these fish: the louse feeds on their skin and blood, causing serious wounds and weakening the immune system, making the salmon vulnerable to infections that end up being fatal. In short, fish in farms are slowly being consumed by suffering and disease.
The report shows – once again – that despite sustainability certifications, the salmon industry in Europe is characterized by inhumane farming practices which have strong repercussions not only on animal welfare but also on the environment.
Sustainable certifications that hide a disturbing reality
Many of the labels that distinguish salmon sold to the public, such as the ASC (Aquaculture Stewardship Council) seal, promise responsible farming practices. However, the data provided by Foodwatch and investigations conducted in the field reveal that the situation is far from what one would expect.
These certifications promise transparency, but traceability hardly works. Germany, the country where the survey was conducted, is one of the largest importers of farmed salmon, with half of the fish on supermarket shelves coming from Norway, one of the largest producers in the world, but here the mortality of salmon has reached record levels.
The data speaks clearly: in Norway, Over 100 million fish die every year due to disease, parasites and overcrowded conditions in cages. One in four juvenile salmon and one in six adult salmon do not survive during the farming phase, a massacre that reflects the intensive and unsustainable approach of companies in the sector.
Overcrowding and disease
Farming practices are particularly troubling: To cut costs, companies cram as many salmon as possible into cages, where the animals are vulnerable to infections, parasites and injuries. The living conditions in these overcrowded environments, combined with the difficulty of maintaining clean waters, make salmon susceptible to devastating diseases.
Furthermore, the spread of diseases by sick fish escaping from cages poses a threat to wild salmon stocks and the entire marine ecosystem.
Nothing new, unfortunately, all things that attentive consumers already know thanks to previous investigations.
Environmental impact
Another significant issue is the environmental impact of salmon aquaculture. Each year, approximately 200,000 farmed salmon escape into natural waters, bringing with them diseases and parasites that harm wild salmon populations. Furthermore, farming requires enormous quantities of fish feed, contributing to overfishing of the oceans and putting other marine species at risk.
The sustainability of the sector is also called into question by the fact that quality seals such as the ASC and GGN, which are supposed to guarantee responsible practices, are not effective in stopping serious violations of farming conditions.
The problem Listeria and other contaminations
In addition to animal welfare and environmental concerns, consumer health is also a topic of discussion. In recent years, a Listeria outbreak has affected smoked salmon across Europe, with cases reported in Italy, Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands.
Foodwatch requests
Foodwatch has launched a petition to stop the sale of salmon from Norway in supermarkets, until the industry resolves its environmental and animal welfare issues. Supermarket chains such as Rewe, Edeka and Aldi, which advertise sustainable products, continue to sell salmon from farms with serious shortages.
Foodwatch is calling on these companies to use their power to change the system and put an end to the disastrous conditions faced by the industry.
