After colonized online shopping with millions of garments sold at bargain prices and disposable collections, Shein, the Chinese giant of the Ultra-Fast Fashion, now focuses on physical stores. France will open his doors, and he will do it in style: starting from November, Shein will inaugurate his first stores in the heart of Paris and, following, in five French cities. A move that – rightly – did not like many, given that it risks amplifying the already devastating phenomenon of disposable fashion.
Where shein will open
The debut is scheduled at the BHV Marais in Paris, in the 4th arrondissement, where the first Permanent Corner Shein will take place from November inside the historic department store. Immediately afterwards it will be the turn of the Galeries Lafayette di Digione, Reims, Grenoble, Angers and Limoges. Six stores in total, the result of an agreement with the Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), which first decided to welcome the Chinese brand stores.
The news obviously did not go unnoticed. Associations, companies and even institutions have spoken of a real betrayal of the values of fashion and local trade. Shein has been accused of feeding a toxic model for years: its prices are so low as to encourage compulsive consumption, the productions are massive and not very transparent, not to mention the mountains of textile waste that are created and the unfair competition for brands that try to maintain ethical and environmental standards.
Indignant reactions
The French fashion world has literally arise. Galeries Lafayette, still linked to Sgm by an affiliation contract, has clearly distanced himself by declaring that the partnership damages his image and violates the brand’s values.
In the press release that issued we read:
The Galeries Lafayette intend to express their profound disagreement with this decision, in light of the positioning and practices of this Ultra Fast Fashion brand, which are in contradiction with their offer and their values. In addition, it is contrary to the contractual conditions of affiliation that bind the Sgm group to the Galeries Lafayette. The company has communicated its position to the Sgm group and its president, Frédéric Merlin. The Galeries Lafayette will prevent the implementation of this decision.
Even the Caisse des Dépôts, involved in the negotiations for the purchase of the BHV premises, expressed a dry “no” to this alliance, reiterating that their investments must respect criteria of responsibility and sustainability.
Several brands present at BHV have announced the withdrawal of their products: among these Maison Lejaby and Aime, who have accused Sgm of a lack of respect towards the entire sector. The mayor of Paris, Anne Hidalgo, also criticized the decision, judging it against the city’s policies for sustainable and local fashion.
The trade associations then speak of a destructive model. The National Clothing Federation (FNH) and the French Federation Federation of Female Prêt-à-Porter (FFPAPF) have denounced the choice of Sgm as a “betrayal” towards workers, companies and consumers.
By opening up the doors ultra-bright fashion, these department stores turn their backs on their tradition and their cultural role-said Yann Rivoallan, president of the FFPAPF.
Shein’s defense
For his part, Shein tries to overturn the narrative. The brand claims to want to “revitalize the French city centers”, promises the creation of 200 jobs and presents itself as a chance of diversification for the department stores. Sgm, which manages Bhv and several Lafayette, speaks of “misunderstanding” and claims the freedom to offer consumers a mix that ranges from luxury to fast fashion.
Beyond the promises of occupation and renovation, it remains a central point: Shein is the emblem of US fashion. A model that pollutes, exploits and feeds a bulimic consumerism of which we have no need. Bringing this system from the screens to the shelves of department stores means making it even more present in daily life, normalizing an industry that already produces enormous environmental and social damage today.
The question is simple then: do we really want city centers to become showroom of Fast Fashion, or is it not time to demand a change of course towards a more just and sustainable fashion?
Sources: Le Monde / Galeries Lafayette
