There is a wild herb that smells of country, rough hands and ancient gestures. In the markets of the Castelli Romani it still appears, shy but tenacious, with green and hairy leaves. They call it Ramoraccia, or perhaps Ramoraccio, Ramuraccia, Ramolaccio, many names for a single protagonist. The botanical name is Raphanus Raphanistrumthat is, the wild radish. It grows spontaneously in the fields, between the abandoned rows and the arguments of earth, where the distracted eye sees only the brushwood.
Yet, that plant that science considers “Scospea Terrophita”, for the popular cuisine of Lazio is a precious ingredient. Indeed, a real pillar. The leaves – and only those – end up on the plates. Not the roots, which remain in the ground or throw away. The leaves, on the other hand, remember for taste those of the broccoli, although kind, less aggressive and much more versatile.
A story that sinks over the centuries
The ramoracci are not a recent discovery, given that the ancient Romans already knew them. Or, better, they snubbed them, because the leaves were considered “Cibus Illaliberalis”, plebeian food, servants, unworthy of a noble table. Pliny the old man wrote it, without too many laps of words. The roots, on the other hand, were appreciated and were thought to have an aphrodisiac virtues. A double destiny, which today makes us smile.
In the sixteenth century, the doctor and herbalist Pietro Andrea Mattioli tried to restore some justice. The Ramoracci – he wrote – are rich in mineral salts, vitamins and active ingredients useful for the body. Sodium, potassium, iron, calcium, phosphorus, and still vitamins A, B, C, E. a real concentrate of health, therefore used against insomnia, to calm the spasms, to soothe pain.
Between land and pan
Those who have walked in winter in the fields of Lazio know that the rams do not fear the cold, resist frost and grow even in the most stingy soils. A little rain and some ray of sunshine are enough. This is why the peasant cuisine fell in love with it, because they were there, at hand, they sized without asking for anything in return and their taste, simple and vegetable, goes well with everything.
In the Castelli Romani, from Rocca Priora to Genzano, each country has a different recipe. In Velletri they prepare the ramuracce with a pizzetta, a soft and rustic focaccia, stuffed with the leaves sautéed in a pan with garlic, oil and chilli pepper. In Rocca Priora, however, there is an omelette that celebrates them. No eggs, only crushed potatoes and boiled rams, mixed until they become a soft and compact pie.
And it doesn’t end here. Ramoraccers are also used to enrich soups and soups, they fry in batter like courgette flowers. There are those who turn them into pesto, to be spread on bread or to season the pasta. Some chefs, in recent years, have brought them to restaurants: next to the fish fillets, or approached the stewed meats, to give a well -known, profound but not intrusive note.
A multiple identity
Calling them “Ramorace” is not wrong, but not definitive. It depends on the country, the use and collective memory of the reference place. The Latin name “Raphanus” comes from the Greek word Raphyswhich means “quick appearance”. It is a reference to the speed with which the seeds germinate, even if it could also allude to the thin form of the root, which recalls a needle (Raphisin Greek).
From a botanical point of view, the wild radish belongs to the family of Brassicaceaethe same as the cauliflower, rocket and turnip greens. A noble lineage, if you think about it. The plant grows up to 80 centimeters in height, has a erect stem, few branches and a yellow-white inflorescence that appears between March and September. The flowers are small, but clearly visible, with four petals and a purple glass.
The fruit, on the other hand, is a long, long, tapered, containing small seeds ordered one after the other. It does not open alone, as happens for other plants of the same family. It remains closed, protects. A discretion consistent with the entire plant, which is not imposed, but offers itself.
A rediscovery in progress
Until a few years ago, talking about ramoraccce meant evoking childhood, grandmother’s lunches, the stories of a world that seemed to have disappeared. Today, something has changed and in the local markets the ramoraccas have returned to peep. They are no longer just “weeds” for those who know the campaign, but ingredients sought by those who want to authenticity.
Gastronomic tourism has played a role. Visitors of the Castelli Romani seek true experiences, sincere flavors, and then they discover the ramoracci, taste them and tell them. Some take them home, they cultivate them, for what we could call a small return to the origins, but with new eyes.
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