Who doesn’t want to have soft, glowing lips in seconds? The various versions and brands of cocoa butter with glow effect promise this result, but according to one of the latest investigations by Oeko-Testa German consumer magazine, many of these products contain potentially problematic substances.
Among 18 products tested in the laboratory, purchased in pharmacies, perfumeries, organic supermarkets and online, only one managed to obtain a “very good” score. The main problem? The presence of titanium dioxide, which however is not the only substance under observation by the experts who also found formaldehyde, mineral oils and talc in some products.
What does cocoa butter contain?
Almost all lip balms tested contain titanium dioxide (TiO₂), a pigment banned in foods as an additive due to its possible genotoxic effect on DNA. The problem, he underlines Oeko-Test, is that cocoa butter is a product intended to be applied directly to the lips, an area particularly prone to accidental ingestion during daily use.
It is not yet clear whether titanium dioxide ingested via cosmetics can have the same negative effect on DNA as a food additive. However, due to the precautionary principle, German experts have decided to strongly penalize all products that contain it, highlighting that the potential risk cannot be ignored, especially for a cosmetic that comes into direct contact with the mouth.
To complicate the situation, some cocoa butters contain other problematic substances:
Additionally, many conditioners contain azo dyes such as tartrazine or sunset yellow (E110). These pigments, while giving color to the lips, can represent a health risk: tartrazine can cause skin irritation, while sunset yellow is suspected of causing allergic reactions, such as asthma and eczema, especially in predisposed individuals. The problem is aggravated by labels that contain generic words such as “may contain” (“may contain”), which do not allow consumers to know for sure whether the dyes are actually present.
The best and worst products
The only lip balm that obtained the “very good” rating is Alterra Lippenbalsam 02 Bio-Kakao (distributed by Rossmann), the only one of the 18 tested not to contain titanium dioxide or other critical substances. However, this product is typical of the German market and not available in Italy.
Among the products with a “satisfactory” rating, also available in Italy, there are:
Among those with a “sufficient” rating, present on the Italian market, we find:
The test instead “failed” three lip balms with serious critical issues, judging them “insufficient”. These are:
Two other products received a “poor” rating, these are Aveo Lippenpflege Pearly Glow and Isana Lippenpflege Pearl & Gloss.
How the test was conducted
The test included 18 lip balms with a glow effect, purchased from pharmacies, perfumeries, organic supermarkets and online, including eight certified natural cosmetic products, with prices from 0.69 to 14.95 euros.
Manufacturers were asked for an updated ingredient list and tested for synthetic polymers, talc, titanium dioxide, color pigments, formaldehyde, mineral oils, allergenic fragrances, heavy metals and packaging. Hygiene seals and percentage of recycled plastic were also evaluated.
