As Black Friday approaches, Greenpeace Germany returns to shine the spotlight on Shein, the Chinese fast fashion giant, with a new investigation that leaves no room for doubts (if you still had them!). According to the report “Shame on you, Shein!”, approximately a third of the clothes analyzed contain dangerous chemical substances beyond the limits permitted by the European REACH regulation.
What the investigation found
Greenpeace purchased and had a total of 56 items from 8 different countries analyzed at an accredited and independent laboratory in Germany. The selection included clothing and shoes for adults (dresses, outerwear, sweaters, shirts) and 17 items aimed specifically at children, including costumes, pajamas, t-shirts and rain boots.
The results were defined as “alarming”: 18 out of 56 products, or 32%, exceeded the limits established by the REACH Regulation for chemical substances. And the concentrations detected were not just above the limits, but exceeded them by 1.1 to 3,269 times.
Hazardous substances belonging to five different chemical groups have been identified.
Phthalates, plasticizers used to make materials more flexible, were found in 14 products, mostly in footwear. In some cases they exceeded REACH limits by up to 200 times. These compounds are linked to fertility problems, child development disorders and damage to aquatic life.
PFAS, the infamous “eternal pollutants” used to make fabrics water-repellent and stain-resistant, were detected in 7 products, all outdoor jackets. The most striking case concerns a women’s rain jacket that exceeded the REACH limit by 3,269 times. These substances are extremely persistent, accumulate in the human body and are suspected of being carcinogenic, as well as compromising fertility, child development and the immune system.
Heavy metals such as lead and cadmium emerged in three and one products respectively. Lead, found in the insole of a pair of women’s sandals (2.8 times the limit), is particularly harmful to children, as it affects brain development. Cadmium, also found in the sole of a shoe, is a probable carcinogen that damages the kidneys, lungs and cardiovascular system.
Formaldehyde, a substance that can cause DNA damage and lead to cancer, has been found in alarming concentrations (3.5 times the limit) in a children’s mermaid costume.
Antimony was detected in 21 products, although there is not yet a specific REACH limit in textiles for this substance. Furthermore, dimethylformamide, a volatile organic compound harmful to the fetus, was found in 15 samples, in one case exceeding the threshold for Substances of Very High Concern.
Shein’s broken promises
It is not the first time that Shein has been targeted by Greenpeace. Already in 2022, an investigation had revealed the presence of dangerous chemicals above legal limits. At the time, the company had withdrawn the offending articles promising to improve the management of toxic substances. New analyses, however, show that little or nothing has changed.
The products reported in previous tests reappear in almost identical form, with the same dangerous substances – reports Moritz Jäger-Roschko, Greenpeace expert on the circular economy – The company seems willing to accept damage to people and the environment. These results clearly demonstrate that voluntary self-regulation is useless.
Shein’s numbers are as impressive as they are worrying: with 363 million monthly visits, we are talking about the most visited fashion platform in the world, which alone surpasses giants such as Nike, H&M and Myntra combined. The offer is close to half a million models always available, twenty times that of H&M, fueling an incessant consumption of low-cost clothes.
At the same time, revenue rose from $23 billion in 2022 to $38 billion in 2024, while the company’s emissions quadrupled in the same period and 82% of the fibers used are polyester, a plastic derived from fossil fuels.
Despite the huge fines, Shein continues to exploit customs loopholes and evade environmental and consumer protection regulations, showing the limits of a system based on fast production and consumption.
The upcoming Black Friday will once again take this fast fashion craze to the extreme – warns Greenpeace. The Chinese giant – represents a broken system of overproduction, greed and pollution.
Shein (and it’s not the only one) is flooding the planet with low-quality clothes and accessories that fuel an unsustainable cycle of consumption and textile waste.
We need binding laws
For Greenpeace, the only solution is through stringent regulation. The organization looks to the French model, which recently introduced a tax on fast fashion, promoted the circular textile economy and banned advertising of ultra-fast fashion, including on social media.
The demands are to apply European chemicals legislation to all products sold in the EU, including online; make platforms legally responsible for violations and allow authorities to suspend services in case of repeated non-compliance.
HERE you can read the complete Greenpeace report.
