Cicerchia, with its scientific name Lathyrus sativusis much more than a simple legume: it is an agricultural relic. Resistant like no other, it was the salvation of our ancestors during periods of drought, and today it is a banner of Italian biodiversity to be saved and rediscovered. From the need for careful preparation to its rebirth in gourmet cuisines, here’s why this “prickly pea” deserves to return to your table.
Known in India as khesari and also known as prickly peas or grass pea, Cicerchia boasts a thousand-year history, with traces dating back to over 8000 years ago in Mesopotamia. Its strength is not in the quantity of the harvest, but in its resilience: it is one of the few legumes to grow luxuriant even in arid soil and extreme climatic conditions, a characteristic that has made it fundamental in peasant nutrition, especially in the less fertile areas of Italy.
Cicerchia, an Italian heritage
Although it is a global legume, in Italy the grass pea has found its place in several regional traditions. The varieties cultivated in Puglia, Umbria, Lazio (such as the Cicerchia di Serra de’ Conti and the Cicerchia di Acquaviva delle Fonti), in the Marche and in Molise have obtained the recognition of Traditional Agri-food Product (PAT). This status raises it from a simple legume to a guardian of tradition and biodiversity. Rediscovering it today means supporting local agriculture and the conservation of ancient varieties.
Properties of the grass pea
Peas are a legume particularly rich in proteins. The grass peas grown in Italy, despite the recognition of a traditional agri-food product by the Ministry of Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies, is today considered a rather rare food outside the regions that traditionally preserve it.
Yet grass pea is one of the oldest and most consumed legumes by our ancestors as it is a true concentrate of energy and vegetable proteins, what today would be defined as a superfood. In particular, grass pea is particularly rich in:
Furthermore, Cicerchia is a sustainable legume par excellence. Its ability to enrich the soil with nitrogen (fixing it from the air, like all legumes) reduces the need for chemical fertilizers, contributing to soil health and ecological agriculture.
Contraindications and neurotoxicity: let’s clarify
Despite its many benefits, the shadow of neurolatrism, a degenerative disease that leads to paralysis of the lower limbs, has historically limited the spread of grass pea.
The seeds of the grass pea contain, in fact, a neurotoxin, in the form of an amino acid called ODAP (or BOAA – Beta-N-Oxalylamino-L-alanine), the concentration of which varies depending on the variety, soil conditions and environment, the substance correlated, in fact, with neurolatrism.
The disease appeared in Europe and Asia following severe famines, when grass peas represented, for long periods, the only source of sustenance. Consumption in excessive and prolonged quantities, combined with an unbalanced diet poor in other nutrients, was the risk factor. In modern varied and balanced diets, the risk of contracting neurolatrism is considered extremely rare in Italy. Furthermore, agriculture and research are developing and selecting cultivars with a very low concentration of ODAP, making consumption even safer.
Uses and how to minimize the toxicity of grass peas?
How to minimize the toxicity of grass peas? To consume grass pea in complete safety and make it pleasantly digestible, it is imperative to follow a specific preparation protocol.
The crucial recommendation is to give the grass peas a long soak before cooking in preferably salted and warm water for at least 24 hours.
The soaking water must always be eliminated and replaced with plenty of fresh, unsalted water when cooking.
ODAP is thermolabile, meaning it is destroyed by high temperatures. Cooking helps to defeat the potential toxicity of grass pea. It is necessary to cook the grass peas in boiling water. The times can be quite long, like those of chickpeas or dried beans but even longer. So the suggestion in this case is to use the pressure cooker to save time and the so-called slow cookers which cook at low temperatures are particularly not recommended.
The long soaking and prolonged cooking at high temperatures would help make the grass peas more digestible. Adding a strip of Kombu seaweed to the pot or carminative spices (such as thyme and rosemary) will make the grass peas more digestible, preventing the intestinal swelling typical of legumes.
How to cook grass peas
The use of grass peas as a side dish requires simple condiments that do not cover their characteristic flavor but, on the contrary, enhance it. We are referring to extra virgin olive oil and very common aromatic herbs such as thyme, oregano and rosemary, which among other things can help make all legumes more digestible and relieve any intestinal swelling in those who are not used to their consumption.
Some of the most common uses of grass peas concern the preparation of traditional dishes from some Italian regions, such as soups, minestrone (for example in combination with whole grains) but also purees. Grinding grass peas allows you to obtain a flour suitable for the preparation of crepes, polenta and focaccias.
With grass peas you can also prepare legume purees to serve as a side dish as an alternative to the classic mashed potatoes. Peas are also used as a condiment for pasta or to prepare a rich side dish, combined with cherry tomatoes, potatoes, carrots, celery and onions.
Recipes with grass peas
The characteristic flavor of Cicerchia, which is slightly reminiscent of hazelnut, is a distinctive element that lends itself to both rustic and refined recipes. It is the perfect legume for autumn cooking, when hot and hearty dishes are preferred.
The Umbrian soup (Comfort Food)
Cicerchia is the ingredient of honor in regional soups, often combined with simple but tasty ingredients.
Classic Preparation: after soaking and pre-cooking, fry garlic, sage and rosemary. Add the Cicerchia, a little tomato puree and vegetable broth. At the end of cooking, flavor with fresh mint or parsley and a generous drizzle of EVO oil.
GreenMe Version (With Cereals): combine the Peas with a whole grain such as spelt or barley for a complete single dish. In autumn, add cubes of pumpkin and salsify for a sweet, earthy touch.
Puree (or Cream) of Peas (Alternative Side Dish)
Cicerchia is ideal for obtaining a full-bodied puree, perfect as an alternative to mashed potatoes or classic hummus.
Cooking: after cooking it until it is very soft, drain it (reserving a little of the cooking water).
Preparation: blend the grass peas with EVO oil, a clove of garlic (optional), lemon juice and a pinch of chilli pepper. Use the cooking water to adjust the consistency.
Gourmet pairing: serve the purée on toasted wholemeal bread or as a base for a second vegetable dish, such as a black cabbage pie or pan-fried porcini mushrooms.
Pea Flour (Gluten Free Versatility)
By grinding Cicerchia you obtain a flour suitable for multiple uses, although it often requires the addition of other flours to guarantee the right elasticity.
Uses: perfect for preparing rustic polenta (such as farinata or cecina, excellent in combination with bitter herbs such as chicory), savory crepes (to be filled with seasonal vegetables) or flat and tasty focaccias like chickpea flour
Burger and vegetable meatballs
Cooked grass peas are an excellent base for veggie burgers and meatballs, thanks to their consistency.
Preparation: blend the cooked grass peas with spices (curry, cumin or coriander), a little breadcrumbs (or chickpea flour) and grated vegetables such as carrots or celeriac (excellent in autumn). Shape and cook in a pan or in the oven for a protein-rich and original second course.
Peas in Salad (Cold Use)
If cooked perfectly, grass peas can also be used in more structured salads.
Simple dressing: EVO oil, balsamic vinegar and chopped oregano and thyme.
Autumn pairings: they are exceptional in combination with seasonal vegetables such as late radicchio, slices of caramelized red Tropea onion and roasted sweet potato cubes.
Cicerchia is the emblem of a cuisine that respects the land and tradition. Rediscovering it and preparing it carefully is a small gesture of sustainability that enriches your diet with history, taste and health.
