Having a nice golden tan is the dream of many, but not everyone loves – or have time – to spend many hours under the sun to get it. And it is here that self -tanning come into play: cosmetic products that promise a good summer complexion without exposing themselves to sunlight.
But have you ever wondered what they really contain, how do they work and above all if they are sure? Let’s find out together.
What is a self -tanning?
The self -tanning are cosmetic products, available in the form of creams, lotions or spray, which give the skin a darker and more uniform color, similar to a real tan, in very quick times (within a few hours). The fundamental difference is that this effect does not derive from exposure to sunlight, but from a chemical reaction on the surface of the skin.
They are particularly loved by those who want to avoid the damage of the sun or tanning lamps, but do not want to give up a beautiful summer complexion.
However, not important not to confuse them with tanning activators who, unlike self -tanning, stimulate the natural production of Melanin in response to sun exposure.
The active ingredient: the dihydroxiac (DHA)
The active ingredient of almost all self -tanning is the dihydroxycetone, commonly called DHA. It is a molecule derived from natural sources, such as sugar cane or some algae. The DHA is a reactive substance that, once applied on the skin, interacts with the proteins and amino acids present in the most superficial layer of the epidermis, called the corneous layer.
This interaction takes place through a chemical reaction similar to the one that, during cooking, darkens bread or biscuits – known as the reaction of Maillard. The result is the formation of brownish pigments called melanidine, which give the skin that characteristic amber complexion.
It is important to underline that this process concerns only surface coloring and does not stimulate the natural production of melanin, the pigment that is formed during the real tan.
Other ingredients and mechanisms
In addition to the DHA, some self -tanning also contain Erythrulose, another natural sugar that performs a similar action, but with a slower and more lasting effect. Products often combine DHA and erythrulose to obtain a more uniform and prolonged result over time.
In addition, many self -tanning sticks include temporary dyes, which do not react chemically with the skin, but serve to show exactly where the product has been applied, facilitating a homogeneous and splendor drafting.
How long does it last and how to eliminate the effect?
The complexion given by the self -tanning is temporary because it only affects the outermost layer of the skin, composed of cells that are continually renewed. As these cells come off, the coloring vanishes in a few days, generally between 3 and 7 days.
To maintain the effect, it is therefore necessary to reapply the product regularly. It is also advisable to exfoliate the skin before the application to encourage a more uniform and lasting result.
What self -tanks don’t do
A fundamental point to clarify is that self -tanning do not protect against sunlight. They do not stimulate melanin’s production, therefore they do not offer any barrier against sun damage. Using them does not equate in any way to protect themselves from scrolling or from skin aging caused by UV rays.
For this reason, it is essential to continue using sun cream during sun exposures, even if a self -tanning has been applied.
The possible risks of the DHA: what scientific studies say
Although dihydroxiacetone is generally considered safe and approved as a cosmetic ingredient by most regulatory entities (including the scientific committee for the safety of consumers – SCCS), in recent years some research has raised doubts about possible harmful effects, especially related to its ability to penetrate more deeply in the skin.
A study of a few years ago published in the magazine CUTANOUS AND OCULAR TOxICOLOGY And conducted by the Division of Toxicology of the Office for Applied Research and the Assessment of the Security of the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition of the American Food and Drug Administration (FDA), analyzed the effects of the DHA on human cell cells called keratinocytes.
The researchers exposed these cells (“Normal Human epidermal Keratinocytes” or Nhek cell phone at various concentrations of DHA up to 0.9%. They evaluated their vitality, possible damage to DNA (genotoxicity) and changes in gene expression. The results indicate that the DHA could have a cytotoxic and genotoxic effect on these cells, suggesting a potential risk for the skin.
This discovery has prompted further studies to better understand if and how the DHA can damage the skin beyond the well -known superficial effect, especially in case of frequent applications or on injured skin.
In addition to the study of the FDA, scientific literature also includes other research that suggests how the application of the DHA can generate oxidative stress and inflammatory responses in keratinocytes, although these effects are still unclear in the context of daily cosmetic use.
For example, some in vitro experiments have shown that prolonged exposure to DHA could alter some cellular functions or increase the production of reactive oxygen species, potentially harmful. However, clinical studies on people are still limited and do not provide a definitive picture of real risk.
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Sources: SCCS / Annales de Dermatologie et de vénéréologie
