These are the plants, trees or climbing that you have to prune in September

Summer is turning to the end, the days begin to shorten and autumn is getting closer; This is the perfect time to complete some pruning works. If you have evergreen shrubs, hedges and trees to be flawed to keep them perfect throughout the winter, now it is the ideal period to dedicate yourself to gardening.

Cut the plants will push them to produce new growth. In this period of the year, it will be much slower, but these new sprouts need enough time to mature before the cold.

Why prune in September

September marks the transition from summer to autumn, with mild temperatures that favor the cicatrization of pruning cuts. Unlike winter, there is no risk that the wounds are exposed to frost.

This period is ideal for sensitive plants, such as cherry and apricot, which if they pruned in the cold months risk developing rubbery. The cuts must be made after the collection and before the fall of the leaves.

They can also be pruned:

September is the right time to intervene without stressing plants and reducing the risk of diseases.

Shrubs

The shrubs that flourished in spring or early summer had to be pruned in July or early August. This year’s stems will produce the flowers of next year, so pruning now risks having nothing next year. However, the shrubs that are blooming can now be pruned as soon as flowering ends, as well as some fruit bushes. Here’s how, Cut a third of the plant, removing the oldest stems just above the bud near the base of the stem.

Abelia

The young Abelia plants do not require any pruning after sowing, apart from the removal of the dead or damaged stems. In the myths, where there is little risk of winter damage, it can be pruned after flowering in late September or early October.

Reduce the congested growth by cutting one in three stems that have produced flowers in a new sprout, near the ground. In cold areas or after particularly rigid winters, much of the growth may have been damaged by frost, in this case it is better to cut all the sprouts near the ground during the month of May. This is also the best way to rejuvenate old or neglected plants; An alternative is to cut one out of three flowering stem every year (starting from the oldest) for a period of three years.

Lonicera (Shrub Caprifoglio)

There is still time to prune the shrubs, such as the popular Lonicera. Al evergreen hedges should be pruned by removing about half of the new growth every year, until they reach the desired height. Subsequently, the hedge must be pruned in May and again in September.

Also the hedges of Prunus laurocerasusthat is, Lauroceraso will benefit from a pruning at this time of the year, but the advice is to prune with scissors, since the leaves cut with Tronchesses can burn quickly and become brown. Then cut the individual branches just above a leaf to stimulate a more orderly finish.

Rose

In this period it is also good to prune even the faded roses by removing the dried flowers with a pruning called late summer to give the plant the opportunity to delight us with a new flowering. The summer pruning of dried flowers is not however mandatory and is recommended above all for the plants of roses and large flowers rosasi.

(READ ALSO: Time to prune the faded roses! Techniques and advice to do it in the right way)

Deciduous trees

As a general rule, the deciduous trees, that is, those who in autumn or winter forgive the leaves, should not be pruned at this time of the year, except for the birch. Being an abundant lymph producer, in fact, cutting the birch in spring and in summer it causes many bleeding, so now it is the perfect time to model young trees removing any lower branches.

Birch

Birch need a few regular pruning, but when they are young it is a good idea to cut the lower branches to leave the lowest part of the trunk. As mentioned above, pruned before August can “bleed” abundantly, but if pruned in September the flow of the sap is slowed down; Now it is absolutely the best time to intervene on the birch.

Carpinus (Carpino)

The deciduous carpine trees are pruned better during the late summer, because they are subject to bleeding if they pruned in spring or early summer. Most carpinian trees forms an attractive and well balanced hair even without intervention, therefore it does not require any pruning except the removal of the crossed or damaged branches by the wind. For the care of young trees remove the lower side branches, in order to gradually raise the hair as the tree grows. The hedges, on the contrary, should be pruned in July, in order to keep them clean and attractive throughout the summer.

Chilean bush (EMBothrium)

Cultivated for its vivid flowering of brilliant red flowers, the Chilean bush requires little or no routine pruning, except for the removal of dead or damaged stems. However, if left to itself it will form an attractive shrub tree with multiple stems, then to create a single stem specimen you will have to prune it to model it. And this is the period of the right year to do it.

Remove everything except the main stem, and then continue to prune any dust sprouts produced in the following years. You will have to dig a hole and cut the suction cup at the base with shears, or cut it with a blow of a sharp spade. Any pruning routine of rebel stems or sparuts is performed better after flowering in early autumn.

Climbing plants

Jasmine (Jasminum officinal)

jasmine

Common jasmine or Jasminum officinal It is a truly fragrant climbing, which should be pruned after flowering during late summer. Here’s how:

The common jasmine tolerates hard pruning, therefore neglected plants can be reinvigorated by cutting less than 50 cm (about 20 inches) from the base. (READ ALSO: How to cultivate jasmine in pots and in the garden)

Common Caprifogli (Lionilera)

Lionilera

Most of the Caprifogli are deciduous and must be pruned after flowering during the late summer, while the evergreen Japanese leaders (Lonicera Japonica) should be pruned in early spring. Once the Caprifoglio has reached the upper part of its support, it inclrates the sprouts to encourage development laterally.

The well -consolidated plants can become excessively congested if you do not prune, so we advise you to thin out the flowering sprouts by cutting the new lateral sprout by about a third. The neglected plants, on the other hand, can become a heavy mass of stems if you do not prune regularly. The advice is to reduce the number of main stems, first removing those positioned uncomfortable or crossed; If you want complete cleaning, deciduous goatflows respond well to pruning in winter.

Passiflora (Passion Flower)

passiflora

To make the most of the passiflora (Passiflora Caerulea) and make it grow luxuriantly you will have to prune it carefully. Try to create a permanent structure of branches, which produces a succession of flowering side shoots. After sowing, cut the plant about 30 cm so as to encourage flowering.

On pergolas and strings, cut out all the lateral sprouts, or simply cut the shoots that have flourished and fruned within two or three gems from the permanent structure of the plant. Replace the old specimens with young and vigorous plants, instead of performing drastic prunings.

Pileostegy viburnoides

There Pileostegy viburnoides It is a beautiful plant to put in the garden; It is an evergreen climbing originally from the north of the India belonging to the family of Hydrangeaceae. If you expand a little too much, however, you can safely remove entire branches until the main stem at this time of the year.

Don’t you want to lose our news?

You may be interested in: