Just twelve kilometers from Segovia, nestled between the slopes of the Sierra de Guadarrama, stands a place where history and nature blend in spectacular harmony: the Real Sitio de San Ildefonso. Known to all as La Granja, this monumental complex is much more than a simple summer residence; it is the materialization of a dream, that of Philip V, the first Bourbon monarch of Spain, who wanted to create his personal refuge here far from the splendor of the court.
The history of the place has its roots in the 15th century, when the monarchs of Castile frequented it for their hunting trips. It was a hunting lodge, together with a hermitage dedicated to Sant’Ildefonso, that constituted the first nucleus of the site. Subsequently, the Catholic monarchs donated the property to the Hieronimite monks, who built a hostel and a farm there, a “granja” in Spanish, from which the name by which it is known today comes. But the real transformation occurred in 1720, when Philip V purchased the entire estate to build a palace that could remind him of his Versailles, a place of retreat from the toils of the kingdom.
Fate, however, had other plans. The premature death of his son and heir, Louis I, forced Philip V to return to the throne, transforming what should have been a quiet retreat into the headquarters of the court. Under the reign of Charles III, the Real Sitio took on its definitive appearance, becoming a vibrant baroque neighborhood inhabited by a thriving aristocracy. Here, between the walls of the palace and the avenues of the gardens, crucial events in Spanish history took place: royal weddings, the signing of treaties and even the sergeants’ revolt that forced Queen Maria Cristina to re-establish the Constitution of 1812.
The beating heart of La Granja is undoubtedly its Royal Palace, an architectural masterpiece whose construction, which began in 1721, lasted until 1761. Inside, the Royal Chapel, later elevated to the Royal Collegiate Church, houses a funerary monument where the remains of Philip V and his Italian wife, Isabella Farnese, rest.
But it is by leaving the building that you enter another dimension. The Royal Gardens, covering 146 hectares, are a true open-air theatre. Although the inspiration from Versailles is evident, these gardens possess a unique soul, where geometric parterres blend with natural woodland vegetation. The real spectacle is offered by the twenty-six monumental fountains, whose sculptures are inspired by classical mythology. Each fountain tells a story: from the Fountain of Fame, whose jet of water reaches 47 meters in height in a symphony of light and colour, to the Baths of Diana, the last fountain built, which according to legend made Philip V exclaim: “Three minutes you entertained me, but three million you cost me”. The water that feeds this wonder comes from a large artificial lake, “El Mar”, located at the highest point of the park.
The Enlightenment legacy of the Real Sitio does not stop at palatial architecture. A short distance away is the Real Fábrica de Cristales, one of the best examples of 18th century industrial architecture in Europe. Founded in 1727, today this majestic building houses the National Glass Foundation and a technological museum, keeping alive an artisan tradition that has made San Ildefonso a point of reference in the Network of European Glass Cities.
In the surrounding area, nature reigns supreme. The Valsaín mountains, historically linked to the crown, offer some of the most beautiful scenery in Spain, with magnificent specimens of Scots pine marketed under the “Maderas de Valsaín” brand. For those who want to immerse themselves in this landscape, there are numerous hiking routes, such as the one that leads to the natural pools of Las Calderas del Cambrones or the climb to the Chorro Grande, the large waterfall in the Sierra de Guadarrama.
The Real Fabrica de Cristales is also worth a visit, an experience reminiscent of that of Murano (Ve) and equally beautiful.
Once the visit is over you can refresh yourself in one of the numerous nearby restaurants. The main course is the famous ones judiones of La Granjaa rich stew of giant white beans. On Tuesday during the week of the festival in honor of Saint Louis, August 25th, it is possible to taste this typical dish in a large popular tasting (around 10,000 people).
