Our dream weekend in Val Formazza between the spectacular Lake Morasco and the majestic Toce waterfall, one of the highest in Europe

Our journey in the pristine Alta Val Formazza began on a quiet Friday evening in mid-September, when we reached the northernmost inhabited village in Piedmont. After traveling along the state road going up the Val d’Ossola and passing the wonders of the valley, we arrived in Riale at 1733 meters above sea level, greeted by an unreal silence and a fantastic starry view, where we parked our vehicle in the convenient camper park located right under the Morasco dam.

The following morning, kissed by a bright and unusually warm sun for the period, we set off along the path which in just 15 minutes led us to the foot of the imposing 55 meter high dam wall, ready to experience a day of pure wonder among the unique views of this corner of Alpine paradise.

The circular tour of Lake Morasco between history and nature

Arriving in front of Lake Morasco, an artificial basin nestled between the peaks of the Alps and still green meadows, we immediately entered the wide farm road that traces its entire perimeter. This simple excursion of about an hour and a quarter, completely flat and suitable for everyone, gave us glimpses of rare beauty over the green-blue waters fed by the Rio Gries.

Walking effortlessly along the bank, we ideally retraced the history of this place, which arose where the ancient village of Morasco once stood, submerged in the last century to make room for hydroelectric production. Crossing stone bridges and stopping on the wooden benches designed by the CAI, we let ourselves be won over by a fairy-tale landscape, perfect for regenerating our mind and spirit before getting back on the road.

From the dam to the thunderous power of the Toce waterfall

After the tour of the lake, we got back into the camper and stopped in the streets of Riale to admire up close its characteristic Walser houses in stone and wood, precious evidence of an ancient Alpine culture, and the suggestive yellow church that dominates the village from the promontory, silent guardian of the memory of the old submerged village.

In the early afternoon we moved towards the famous Toce waterfall, located in the Frua hamlet at 1675 meters above sea level. To fully enjoy the view, we stopped first in the large upper car park, looking directly onto the famous panoramic wooden balcony suspended overlooking the cliff. Here nature shows itself in all its astonishing power: an impressive drop of 143 meters which crowns this wonder among the most spectacular waterfalls in Europe.

Observing the water flowing forcefully again is a privilege that requires attention, since the flow rate is regulated upstream by the dam and follows specific opening hours between the beginning of June and the end of September, with time slots that vary from 11.30am to 1.30pm on weekdays and extended until 4pm on holidays, as well as extraordinary summer openings.

The thrill of observing the power of the waterfall from the “A Waterfall for All” path

To conclude our unforgettable day of trekking, we moved with the camper to the Sotto Frua area, leaving the vehicle near the characteristic church to take the “Una Cascata per Tutti” path. This easy, flat and accessible to anyone route took us directly to the base of the waterfall in just a few minutes, offering us a close-up and deeply evocative perspective of the large jet of water.

At the top of the waterfall, dominating the landscape with its unmistakable structure, stands the iconic and historic yellow hotel: originally built as an accommodation facility in 1863 and subsequently renovated and expanded in a deco style between 1926 and 1929 based on a design by the famous architect Piero Portaluppi, this building has always represented the visual symbol and point of reference of this extraordinary Alpine corner.

Immersed in that atmosphere full of negative ions – known to promote psychophysical well-being and reduce stress – we breathed the fresh mountain air allowing our emotions to merge with the great literary history of the place, celebrated over the centuries by illustrious travelers such as Richard Wagner and Gabriele d’Annunzio.

But this extraordinary natural amphitheater inevitably also evokes the great memories of the history of sport: it is in fact precisely on these ramps, during the Giro d’Italia on 30 May 2003 in the Canelli-Cascata del Toce stage, that the late Marco Pantani sprinted for the last time in his career, giving cycling enthusiasts the last, unforgettable competitive thrill before his death. To make that moment even more unforgettable, going down towards the beginning of the path – on the road – there is a commemorative banner dedicated to the Pirate. With our hearts full of gratitude and our eyes full of extraordinary views, we said goodbye to Val Formazza with the certainty of returning soon to these magical places just a couple of hours from home.